Le Grand Parcours

"The major classic of the mountain, up the striking ridge," so says the Rockfax guide.  And it would be hard to argue with that assessment.  The route breaks up into four major sections, starting up the center of the Aiguille Bertine formation for four pitches of generally steep and engaging climbing on excellent rock.  The section section is less distinct and offers options that lead to a break in the wall coinciding with the descent trail.  The third section accesses a narrow low-angle ridge from the right, by-passing a roof on the right with steeper climbing. The fourth section tackles the prow to finish, with at least three options to end the route.   The exact number of roped pitches will vary.

Pitches 1-5, Aiguille Bertine.
1. Find the start left of center under a large hueco about 50 feet up the wall.  The route name will be painted.  Steep bolted pockets lead up and left around the hueco. (5.9) 2. Move up and back right to a large ledge system, belaying right of bushes and overhangs. (5.6) 3. Steep face climbing leads to a thin seam that angles slightly left, surmounting a bulge and ending on easier terrain. (5.9) 4. An easy pitch leads to the top of the buttress and a belay in the trees. 5. a short section of low angle slab leads to a grassy ledge.

Pitches 6-8.
Either move left and follow a left-leaning ramp system up to a vertical break in the wall, or alternately move right and follow low angles slabs.  Either option brings you to the base of the low-angle ridge at a bulge at its base.

Pitches 9-13.
9. Climb up steeper terrain on the right side of the bulge towards a prominent roof, belaying at its base. (5.7) 10. Turn the roof on its right, go up a corner and belay back left on a nice ledge. (5.7) 11-13. Follow the ridge in three moderate pitches, setting the last belay to the right of the final prow at the base of a prominent wide y-crack system.  

Pitches 14-17.
14. Climb the crack/chimney feature until a fixed belay is reached at a steep and somewhat uncomfortable perch. (5.7) 15. Follow the left branch of the crack up to an exposed and difficult squeeze section, reminiscent of the crux on the Mace, but easier and not as sustained.  Belay in trees on a nice ledge at the prow. (5.8) 16-17. (Option 1) Climb up onto a left angling flake system that leads to a rib system followed to the summit. (Option 2) Move left on the ledge system and follow blocks up into a steep dihedral that leads to the same rib finish. (Option 3) Follow a bolt line out right, difficulty unknown.  

Descent. Traverse left along the summit ridge towards the large cross monument (Le Croix de Provence par le Garagai) until reaching the descent trail (Trace Noire with black paint marks) that goes down into a natural cave tunneling through mountain. Emerge and follow exposed trail sections that mellow out and traverse back and forth across the face of the peak, exiting well right of the route starting point.  The descent hike from end of route back to the route's base takes about an hour and a half.  

Rack: Standard alpine rack.

Find the start left of center under a large hueco about 50 feet up the wall.  The route name will be painted.  See description for Directe du Grand Parcours.

The first couple pitches are bolt protected. Pitch 3 has some fixed gear. The rest requires gear.