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Middle Tower – Daughter
5.11 YDS 6c+ French 23 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 23 ZA E4 5c British
Avg: 3 from 2
votes
Routes in Family Butte
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Fifth Tower from the South (Second from the North) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Fourth Tower from the South (Third from the North) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Middle Tower – Daughter T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Middle Tower – Northwest Face T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Mother Tower - Rising Sons T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C2 |
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Mother Tower – Northwest Face T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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North Tower AKA Son of Putterman - Mexican Gravy Pants T Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c C1 |
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South Tower – North Face T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
| Type: | Trad, 300 ft (91 m), 3 pitches |
| GPS: | 38.76526, -110.84382 |
| FA: | James Garrett, Allan Murphy 5.10 A1 '90. Mike Friedrichs, Gene Roush ? |
| Page Views: | 811 total · 9/month |
| Shared By: | Furthermore on May 23, 2018 |
| Admins: | Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane, Nathan Fisher |
Description
The third pitch on this route is not to be missed! This route begins between Mother Tower and Middle Tower (3rd tower from the south).
Pitch 1: 5.9, ~80 feet. From the tall southeast side of the tower, begin up a hand crack left of the wide first pitch of Rising Sons. Climb the crack for 50 feet and traverse right (1 bolt) back to the wide crack. Two more bolts lead to a belay.
Pitch 2: 5.10, ~80 feet. Traverse up and right to a dihedral that has a crack between the towers. Once near the top of a pillar, traverse right to the base of the obvious splitter on Middle Tower.
Pitch 3: 5.11, ~100 feet. The money pitch. Thin, tricky moves lead to a tight hands splitter which is a little tough due to a waxy veneer. An exposed roof leads to easier crack climbing but with a little softer rock. Finish with some technical face climbing protected by ~7 bolts (might be more?). I had to pull through a short section of bolts at a blank section which felt hard for 5.11. One final sandy mantle leads to the summit.
Rappel down the northwest face with a single 60M rope.
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