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Routes in Family Butte

Fifth Tower from the South (Second from the North) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Fourth Tower from the South (Third from the North) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Middle Tower – Daughter T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Middle Tower – Northwest Face T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Mother Tower – Northwest Face T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Rising Sons T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C2
South Tower – North Face T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
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GPS: 38.798, -110.457 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 2,208 total · 31/month
Shared By: USBRIT Ross on Nov 8, 2012
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq
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Description

Perhaps all the towers on Family Butte have seen ascents by routes dating from the early 1990s. From the summit of our first ascent in November 2012, rap anchors could be seen on some of the various summits. Very little is known of these ascents, only one climb on what is know as the Daughter Tower is described in Cam Burns desert guide. Below will be what we know so far of the climbs on the towers. Anyone with descriptions and other info are invited to add to the site.

Getting There

Family Butte is on the right of the road that leads to Reds Canyon. This road goes south from exit 131 on I70 - the exit is about 30 miles west of Green River. From the exit, go left under I70 and follow good dirt roads towards Reds Canyon. You will see the obvious towers at about 15 miles. Camping areas can be found in the area. The foot of the towers can be reached from the road in about 20 minutes. Family Butte is marked on maps of the San Rafael Swell.

7 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Family Butte

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C2
 3
Rising Sons
Trad, Aid 3 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Rising Sons
 3
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C2 Trad, Aid 3 pitches
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A Rock Climbing Guidebook written by Moab local Eric Bjornstad in 1997 offers quite a bit of history actually. All six towers have had names for at least since the early 90s. The summit registers probably were insecurely attached and have since blown away is my best guess.

Alien Child and The Daughter, p 244-245 (both named after Franziska who was at the time a "Registered Alien Green Card holder" and who had recently lost her Father (Swiss Gentleman, p244) to an accident in Switzerland) and Son Of Putterman (bolt ladder removed by Cam) all went up the longer south side walls. I would guess my old friend and Swell Explorer Layne Potter from Huntington aptly nabbed the FA of Mother via the shorter back (north) side with his son.

Good job on the long side. Nov 10, 2012

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