Type: Trad, 40 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 400 total · 21/month
Shared By: Furthermore on May 16, 2018
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Description

Approach
From the parking area, hike the closed ATV road west. The road will take you near the south side of Chimney Rock. Please be cognizant of cryptobiotic soil and stay on the ATV trail and washes. When you're directly south of Chimney Rock, leave the ATV road (38.8805, -110.8138 ) and hike north in a wash. Hike past the east side of the formation to a series of gullies on the northeast side of the peak.

Climb
From the Northeast side of the peak, ascend the second, easier gully to gain a red ledge. The first gully also works to reach the red ledge but requires 4th-low 5th class climbing.

Walk east (left) then south on the red ledge as you circumnavigate around the dome (~400-500 feet). This ledge is narrow and exposed in some sections and some people may want a rope.

The summit pitch begins in a narrow, white sandstone notch on the south side of the formation. A crack leads out of the notch (5.4) to easier slab above (5.0-5.2). There might be an easier alternative right of the crack up some slab but that option lacks protection. An easy class 3 scramble then leads to the true summit.

Descent
At the top of the summit pitch, rappel from a bush back to the notch. Scramble down or rappel the first gully from the red ledge.

Further Thoughts
Bring a 60M rope if you wanted to rappel the first scramble section from the red ledge. A 30M MIGHT be good enough for the rappel off the summit. A 50M rope would certainly work.

Protection

Overkill rack for the summit pitch requires 1X BD C4 #1-3 and a few slings for threading solution pockets/holes. More gear may be required if you wanted to lead/belay the first gully scramble to the red ledge.

Photos