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California
> San Francisco B…
> E Bay Area
> Mt Diablo SP
> Pine Canyon
> Deliverance Rock
Dueling Banjos
5.13b YDS 8a French 29 Ewbanks IX+ UIAA 30 ZA E7 6c British
Avg: 2 from 1
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Routes in Deliverance Rock
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Deliverance S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Dueling Banjos S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Lucy S,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Sneaky Pouch S,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Squeal Like a Pig S,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13 |
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Unnamed Toprope TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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| Type: | Sport, 65 ft (20 m) |
| GPS: | 37.88265, -121.98835 |
| FA: | Steven Roth (2013?) |
| Page Views: | 1,434 total · 15/month |
| Shared By: | Salamanizer Ski on Apr 6, 2018 |
| Admins: | Aron Quiter, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Access Issue: Falcon Nesting Closure at Castle Rock
Details
Castle Rock in Pine Canyon and the Wanna Get Away areas are closed for peregrine falcon nesting season, from February 1 through July 31st every year. All other Mount Diablo area crags are open to climbing. The news release is linked here parks.ca.gov/NewsRelease/493.
Description
Crimpers, tiny pockets and bad edges with a big reach define this route. The rock for the most part is pretty solid and not a problem, but the climbing will test your edging ability and endurance. There is a definite crux down low, which doesn't exactly set you up for success for the 5.12+ climbing above.
After the second to last bolt you traverse to the left across the face and join the top of Deliverance. There is a direct finish to the route which follows a short vertical seam to the top, avoiding the traverse which has been top roped. The addition of a bolt would be needed to make this leadable, as well as a separate anchor.
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