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Routes in Deliverance Rock

Deliverance S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Lucy S,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Sneaky Pouch S,TR 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Squeal Like a Pig S,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Sport, TR, 60 ft
FA: Norman Boles and John Tuttle, 1992
Page Views: 708 total · 4/month
Shared By: Brian Quiter on Aug 7, 2002
Admins: Aron Quiter, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Falcon Nesting Closure at Castle Rock Details

Description

The right bolted climb on Deliverence rock, Squeal Like a Pig ascends a dihdral with very few holds and awkward stemming. Start at the finger pocket just above your head (unless you freakishly tall), and enjoy it, because its the best hold you'll have for about 35 feet. So to make up for this dearth of good holds, you'll have to stem your heart out.

The bolt spacing and location on this route is safe but still has a very spicy feel, and there are definitely areas where you would not want to take the fall.

Protection

5 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor with chains. Top-roping Sqeal like a pig will probably cause a LOT of rope drag unless you bring about a 20' sling to hang past the slab near the top.

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King Tut
Citrus Heights
King Tut   Citrus Heights
Buwahahaha Squeal like a Pig. Sep 26, 2017
Caliza
  5.11c PG13
Caliza  
  5.11c PG13
I agree with above comment, awesome route but anchors are way too high over the lip and too much moss on the final slab making it precarious and a fall perilous. Nov 9, 2014
Aron Quiter
Oakland, CA
  5.11c
Aron Quiter   Oakland, CA  
  5.11c
The crux of this route was really fun, and I really like the rock of this climb, especially compared to all the other rock in Pine Canyon. This route takes all the balance required in not breaking the grips on other routes in Pine canyon, and actually forces you to do interesting moves.

What I didn't like about this climb is that the top anchor is way over the moss covered top slab. I think it should be bolow this, near the sketchy fifth bolt.

sketchymon. Too much moss on the top! The route kicked ass other than that.

Requires a little more flexibility than you need to climb a 5.11b slab climb.

The fifth bolt sucks! Sep 14, 2002