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Squeal Like a Pig
5.11b YDS 6c French 23 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 23 ZA E3 5c British PG13
Avg: 2.5 from 8
votes
Routes in Deliverance Rock
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Deliverance S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Dueling Banjos S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Lucy S,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Sneaky Pouch S,TR 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Squeal Like a Pig S,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13 |
| Type: | Sport, TR, 60 ft |
| FA: | Norman Boles and John Tuttle, 1992 |
| Page Views: | 727 total · 4/month |
| Shared By: | Brian Quiter on Aug 7, 2002 |
| Admins: | Aron Quiter, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
Your Star Rating:
Access Issue: Falcon Nesting Closure at Castle Rock
Details
Castle Rock in Pine Canyon is closed for peregrine falcon nesting season, from February 1 through July 31st, 2015. All other Mount Diablo area crags are open to climbing. The news release is linked hereparks.ca.gov/NewsRelease/493.
Description
The right bolted climb on Deliverence rock, Squeal Like a Pig ascends a dihdral with very few holds and awkward stemming. Start at the finger pocket just above your head (unless you freakishly tall), and enjoy it, because its the best hold you'll have for about 35 feet. So to make up for this dearth of good holds, you'll have to stem your heart out.
The bolt spacing and location on this route is safe but still has a very spicy feel, and there are definitely areas where you would not want to take the fall.
The bolt spacing and location on this route is safe but still has a very spicy feel, and there are definitely areas where you would not want to take the fall.
Photos
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Oakland, CA
What I didn't like about this climb is that the top anchor is way over the moss covered top slab. I think it should be bolow this, near the sketchy fifth bolt.
sketchymon. Too much moss on the top! The route kicked ass other than that.
Requires a little more flexibility than you need to climb a 5.11b slab climb.
The fifth bolt sucks! Sep 14, 2002
Citrus Heights