Avg: 2 from 1 vote
|Type:||Trad, Mixed, Alpine, 1200 ft, Grade III|
|FA:||J.Kauffman & R.Shore 01/05/2018|
|Page Views:||44 total · 44/month|
|Shared By:||Richard Shore on Feb 1, 2018|
|Admins:||Chris Owen, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes|
DescriptionThe striking cleft/couloir on the left side of the buttress. Mostly a steep snow climb with a few mixed pitches. Depending on conditions, one might get lucky and find some water ice in the crux pitch, making it a much more pleasant endeavor. The rock walls in the couloir are shattered and loose, making solid protection difficult to find in places. Thin pins were valuable for some belays.
Steep snow ramps lead to some short mixed steps over a rock band and then a chockstone at the base of the deep chimney. A sustained M4 pitch in the deep chimney is followed by more steep snow and then an enormous trailer-sized chockstone. In early season with dry conditions, you can tunnel up behind and through the huge block, but as it gets buried with snow later in the season you might have to climb around it on the outside (probably harder). Above, a long easy snow ramp leads to the summit.