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Routes in Potter Mountain

Same as it ever was WI4 PG13
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Type: Ice, 350 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Jan 4, 1986, Tad Welch, Bill Widrig
Page Views: 109 total · 17/month
Shared By: Matt D on Jan 5, 2018
Admins: Jim Lawyer

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Description

The first major line in the area, this climb has 2 long pitches of varied climbing.

P1: Start in the Brazilian cave, and work your way up to the ice above (may require rock gear and rock moves to M4). A moderate angle section of ice leads to steep moves, and a belay at the major ledge that splits the face mid-height.

P2: climb the ice sheet above.

It can be seen from the road, so you'll know if the ice touches down. The challenge for the routes at Potter is whether or not the rock has melted the ice into a suspended, delaminated nightmare. The south facing exposure means the climbing is most likely to be good early season, when the days are still short - especially if December is cold.

Location

Access the cliff by following the directions to the summer rock routes in the area on Mtn Project. Follow the base of the cliff past Siamese (location of summer route Honeybadger at the "pancake flake"), which is the first major ice route that you can see rising up out of sight.

This is the next major ice, about 100-200m further, at the start of the summer rock route Brazilian.

44°31'01.2"N 73°47'57.3"W = 44.517003, -73.799235

In photo this photo, it is the major ice flow 20% of the way from the left side of the image.

The ice routes at Potter Mountain, in really good condition.

Protection

Standard rack of screws. Rock gear may be necessary for the start - you'll know from the base.

Photos

Jim Lawyer    
 
The original route (1986, Welch, Widrig) began on a left-rising ramp, 30' right of the summer rock route Where the Wild Things Are. At the top of the ramp is a large oak tree and huge flake (belay for P1 of Stop Making Sense. From here, they climbed ice in one long pitch to the top. The route described begins in the cave of Brazilian and climbs ice straight up that route to the large ledge that breaks the cliff (about 40' above the oak of the original route). It is more direct, but more susceptible to the sun. This was climbed later. Jan 6, 2018

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