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Routes in 9-Secor

Center Crack TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Center Face TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Connect Low S,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Connect Secor to Moynier S,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Hammerbruch S,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Left Arete + Crack TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Left Ridge S,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Left Slab S,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Right Flake TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Visit to the Gunks TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
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Type: TR, 60 ft
FA: TR Sharon + Ken Roberts
Page Views: 53 total · 5/month
Shared By: kenr on Nov 7, 2017
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Interesting moves all the way, with subtle differences in the styles of holds.

Up directly (or perhaps on its left side) onto tongue. Up face to start of high crack. Up the crack to finish just left of the summit crest.

warning: The rock in this sector has not been climbed much yet, and much of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber.

FA first ascent? The listing of a Top-Rope first ascent does not imply that top-roping is the "appropriate" style for this route. If some party bolts this route and leads it and supplies a careful description of the size and metal-composition of the bolts and hangers - (by posting an Improve This Page or a Comment below) -- they wlll be given first-rank FA on this page. Also they can supply their own name for this climb (which is why currently this route has a "generic" name, awaiting installation of hardware).

Location

Below rock tongue which forms the left side of the lower right crack. This tongue is below a high crack, and above left from obvious low left-facing flake.

- - > see on this Photo

Protection

Top anchor is 2-bolts-connected-with chain, with two carabiners.
. . (All bolts + upper hangers are 304 Stainless steel, 3/8 inch, but lower hanger, carabiners, chain, and quick-links are plated steel - installed in 2017.

No intermediate bolts for leading as of 2017.

Top-Roping: Currently in 2017 there is a static line attached to a tree, which could be used to help create a temporary anchor for Top-Roping.
For ideas how to get access to top of the cliff to set up top anchor for Top-Roping, see the description page for sector Secor.

note: The two anchor bolts are vertically offset, so cannot just connect two quickdraws for lower-off or top-rope as many American sport climbers are accustomed. Consider bringing a sling or climbing accessory cord with one or two carabiners or quick-links.

In case anchor hardware is damaged or missing or otherwise inadequate, recommend to carry a few feet of 8mm climbing accessory cord and at least one quick-link.

Protection for trad Leading is unknown and likely inadequate.

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