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Routes in 9-Secor

Center Crack TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Center Face TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Hammerbruch S,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Left Arete + Crack TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Right Flake TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Visit to the Gunks TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Type: TR, 55 ft
FA: TR Ken + Sharon Roberts
Page Views: 41 total · 7/month
Shared By: kenr on Nov 7, 2017
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Interesting thoughtful moves, first with hands using crack, then less-positive holds on face.

Up along right side of tongue, and follow right-trending crack a bit higher. When feet are just above top of the obvious left-facing flake to right, step left onto face.
. . (Variation: Continue to top of right-trending crack - 5.4).

Up the face trending left (parallel to right crack, but not using the crack) - (and not using holds from the easier route just left). Then straight to top.

warning: The rock in this sector has not been climbed much yet, and much of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber.

FA first ascent? The listing of a Top-Rope first ascent does not imply that top-roping is the "appropriate" style for this route. If some party bolts this route and leads it and supplies a careful description of the size and metal-composition of the bolts and hangers - (by posting an Improve This Page or a Comment below) -- they wlll be given first-rank FA on this page. Also they can supply their own name for this climb (which is why currently this route has a "generic" name, awaiting installation of hardware).

Location

Right side of tongue which forms left side of lower right crack. A bit left from obvious low left-facing flake.

- - > see on this Photo

Protection

The 2-bolt anchor for the route Hammerbruch is above this climb -- for details of configuration and hardware composition of this anchor, see Description page of that Hammerbruch route.

No intermediate bolts for leading as of 2017.

Top-Roping: Currently in 2017 there is a static line attached to a tree on top of the cliff.
For ideas how to get access to top of the cliff to set up top anchor for Top-Roping, see the description page for sector Secor.

note: The two anchor bolts are vertically offset for the anchors near the top iot this climb -- so cannot just connect two quickdraws for lower-off or top-rope as many American sport climbers are accustomed. Consider bringing a sling or climbing accessory cord with one or two carabiners or quick-links.

In case anchor hardware is damaged or missing or otherwise inadequate, recommend to carry a few feet of 8mm climbing accessory cord and at least one quick-link.

Protection for trad Leading is unknown and likely inadequate.

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