Type: Sport, TR, 80 ft
FA: TR Ken Roberts
Page Views: 136 total · 10/month
Shared By: kenr on Jul 28, 2018
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Variety of interesting thoughtful moves. Works well as first pitch connecting up to the NorthEast Ridge of sector 8 Moynier, especially continuing on the ridge using "NE Ridge Direct" as second pitch.

Thoughtful crux about halfway up, then the upper half is less difficult (and still interesting + fun). Two versions of the the crux sequence. Main route goes more left getting on top of ridge earlier. Variation about one grade more diffficult also thoughtful goes more right, staying longer on the edge of the ridge before getting established top -- about one grade harder.

Crux could be avoided (at lower difficulty) by joining the upper half from a different route: "Left Slab" or "Connect Low".
. . (why you many notice "unnecessary" bolts just to right of this route).

directions: Start at base of small buttress which is below left from top platform of sector 9 Secor. which is on grassy ramp sloping down right from bottom of bolted route "Mamba" of sector 8 Moynier, and left of broad slab below left from main top platform of sector Secor. At first on the face of the ridge, left of the edge.
. . (could also start up along right side of edge - might feel more comfortable for clipping the first bolt).
Next more along the edge. Then the main route steps up left onto face on top of ridge which is next to small left-facing corner and some interesting moves up to gentler ground.
. . . (Leaders don't forget to clip the bolt above left from the crux near easier ground, because that's needed to protect your Follower from swining off right if they fall on the crux sequence).

Variation (more direct + difficult): Continue a few feet higher along the edge, then pull over up left onto the top face of the ridge.

After this a small steep step onto a slab, then a steep steep up onto a face not as difficult, to finish just left of bush.

warning: The rock in this sector has not been climbed much yet, and much of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber.

Location

On grassy ramp sloping down right from bottom of bolted route "Mamba" of sector 8 Moynier, at base of small buttress which is below left from top platform of sector 9 Secor.

- - > See A on this Photo

Protection

9 or 10 bolts for intermediate Lead protection up to two top anchors, one just below the top platform with bush (for lower-off or top-roping), the other on the wall behind the platform with bush (for continuing on to higher pitch).

Lower top anchor is two-bolts-connected-with-chain with ramshorn lower-off.
. . (bolts + upper hanger are 304 Stainless steel 3/8-inch x 2.75 inch. Lower hanger + ramshorn (pigs tail) lower-off are 316 Stainless. 8-link chain + quick-links are Plated steel. Installed 2018).

Upper top anchor is two-bolts-connected-with-chain big quick-link for possible rappel (but it's main purpose is for making the transition to climbing another pitch above.
. . (bolts + upper hanger are 304 Stainless steel 3/8-inch x 2.75 inch. Lower hanger + 3-link chain + quick-links are Plated steel. Installed 2018).

. . (intermediate bolts for leading are all 304 Stainless steel 3/8-inch. Installed 2018).

1 bolt protecting the horizontal traverse connection between the Mid-Level Ledge of sector Moynier and the top anchor for this route.
. . (3/8 inch-sleeve bolt and its hanger are Plated steel. Installed 2018).

Top-Roping: Climb any route in sector Moynier which reaches the Mid-Level Ledge, then traverse right across the tree trunk to the bush.

In case anchor hardware is damaged or missing or otherwise inadequate, recommend to carry a few feet of 8mm climbing accessory cord and at least one quick-link.

Photos

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