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Routes in 9-Lavorgo

Center Crack TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Center Face TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Hammerbruch S,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Left Arete + Crack TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Right Flake TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Visit to the Gunks TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Type: TR, 70 ft
FA: TR Sharon + Ken Roberts
Page Views: 38 total, 38/month
Shared By: kenr on Nov 7, 2017
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Interesting fun moves in three different rock situations: low slab with shallow rounded flakes, mid-height arete, upper wide crack.

Up along shallow rounded flakes trending a bit left, to left side of corner/arete. Get established on arete and up that. Step right to wide crack and finish up along that.

warning: The rock in this sector has not been climbed much yet, and much of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber.

FA first ascent? The listing of a Top-Rope first ascent does not imply that top-roping is the "appropriate" style for this route. If some party bolts this route and leads it and supplies a careful description of the size and metal-composition of the bolts and hangers - (by posting an Improve This Page or a Comment below) -- they wlll be given first-rank FA on this page. Also they can supply their own name for the climb (which is why currently this route has a "generic" name, awaiting installation of hardware).

Location

Below the mid-height corner and obvious high wide crack, On left side of low gentler apron.

- - > see on this Photo

Protection

Top anchor is 2-bolts-connected-with chain, and a "rams horn" ("pig tail") lower-off piece, which is connected to the lower bolt hanger by a small shackle (which has claimed strength of 38 kN / 8500 lb).
. . (Bolts + upper hanger are 304 Stainless steel, 3/8 inch.
. . . the ramshorn and shackle are 316 Stainless.
. . . Lower hanger, chain, quick-links are plated steel - installed in 2017).

No intermediate bolts for leading as of 2017.

Above left from the anchor are some facultative bolts, which could be used to help protect reaching this route's anchor from above, or for making the transition to a another higher pitch in sector Miroir - [ for details see Lavorgo sector description ].

Top-Roping: Currently in 2017 there is a static line attached to a tree on top of the cliff.
But need a directional to use it with this route.
For ideas how to get access to top of the cliff to set up top anchor for Top-Roping, see the Lavorgo area page.

note: The two anchor bolts are vertically offset, so cannot just connect two quickdraws for lower-off or top-rope as many American sport climbers are accustomed. Consider bringing a sling or climbing accessory cord with one or two carabiners or quick-links.

In case anchor hardware is damaged or missing or otherwise inadequate, recommend to carry a few feet of 8mm climbing accessory cord and at least one quick-link.

Protection for trad Leading is unknown and likely inadequate.

Photos

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