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Routes in Spire five

Beethoven's Fifth T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Blame It On the Boogie T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Corner to the Sky T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Drinking Women, Chasing Whiskey T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c R
Goin' back to Indiana T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Kampsite T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Splinter direct T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unkown Shaffer Route T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
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Type: Trad, 200 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Mark Rafferty & Ty Habbe, Oct. 2017, Ground up
Page Views: 684 total · 55/month
Shared By: Mark Rafferty on Nov 7, 2017
Admins: Andrew Gram, Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Mike Madsen, Mark Rafferty

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A new moderate multi pitch in the Spires! Easy to follow and very straight forward with rappel stations on each pitch.

P1 (5.8): Start to the right of the fallen spire at the base of the wall. Continue up and right following series of cracks and flakes to a large ledge. Bolted Chain Anchor.

P2 (5.9)****: From the belay follow the micro seam with great gear and traverse left onto the face clipping a bolt. Head straight up into the right facing dihedral until you reach yet another great ledge. Continue up anf finish through another right facing dihedral. Bolted Chain Anchor.

Decent: Rappel the route. Single 70m.


Appoach: I find the easiest way to get to the base of the wall is to take the Spire 2 approach trail. Before you would enter into the 2/3 gully take a left and follow the climbers trail, traversing the base of spire 4/Eyetooth. Once It's the next biggest wall past Eyetooth on the Spire 5 mass.

The Route starts almost in the center of the North Face of Spire 5.


Nuts/Rps, C3s, Single rack up to #4.



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