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Routes in Spire five

Beethoven's Fifth T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Blame It On the Boogie T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Corner to the Sky T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Drinking Women, Chasing Whiskey T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c R
Goin' back to Indiana T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Kampsite T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Splinter direct T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unkown Shaffer Route T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, 135 ft
FA: Chris Hirsch, Harrison Teuber (ground up) 10/16
Page Views: 138 total, 10/month
Shared By: harrison t on Oct 8, 2016
Admins: Andrew Gram, Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Andy Busse, Mike Madsen, Mark Rafferty

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Description

A nice long adventure up the east face of the Kampsite spire, consisting of two short bouldery cruxes mixed with some fun moderate climbing. We were psyched to leave the spire bolt free!

Start by scrambling up the mini spire in front of the east face. Place a piece in the questionable flakes to the right of the main seam/crack. Pull onto the flakes and then traverse left into the crack with good side pulls and feet. Fiddle in some rps and figure out how to gain the good crack. A nice rest follows,then prepare yourself for another crux protected by another rp getting to and pulling the bulge above! Easier climbing through flakes until it shares the last 40ish feet of runout 5.4-5.6 climbing with the original 'Kampsite' route.

Location

approach as for 'Kampsite'
Mini spire in front of long east face

Protection

Singles to #3. Rps are a must
Cord for anchor
NSR 80m or double rope

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