Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Ojibway Peak

Charles Wallace the Party Rabbit S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Modern Direct T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Original Direct Finish T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Standard Route T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
T'es pas game T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Order Wrong? Sort Routes
Type: Trad, Alpine, 600 ft, 4 pitches, Grade II
FA: Shields/Garon
Page Views: 89 total · 10/month
Shared By: Fremont Shields on Nov 7, 2017
Admins: grk10vq

You & This Route


1 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description [Suggest Change]

This route could have very well been climbed before as early as the 1960's by any number of very talented people who have climbed in the area in the last 50 years. I'm adding it to the database in case anyone has looked to the right from the original route and wondered what it's like "over there" or if it's been climbed at all.

One summer day my partner and I decided to just go have a look starting from the bottom. What we found was a route that compared, in difficulty, to the original route. The first pitch didn't protect very well due to the compact nature of the slab. The pitch through the big roof I'd describe as traveling through nearly the highest point of the right side on good, protectable cracks. Higher the rock quality worsened, but never to the point that we had to debate the value in continuing upward. Overall, this route traveled through a lot of 5.6-5.8 difficulty loose terrain. It is significantly looser than the standard route for comparison and therefore I can't recommend it. Choss aficionados and seekers of the obscure may enjoy it.

The first pitch was probably the technical crux and we finished by traversing left and off once we hit the large ledge separating the bottom of the face from the upper headwall.

Location [Suggest Change]

Follow the general line in the picture. Don't climb directly above your belay on this route due to loose rock. Traverse off by joining the standard route at the pillar or taking one of the lines that continues up the headwall.

Protection [Suggest Change]

Standard rack to 3". Something to equalize gear at belays.

Photos

0 Comments

More About T'es pas game

Printer-Friendly