Type: Trad, Alpine, 200 ft (61 m), 2 pitches, Grade II
FA: Shields/Lunceford
Page Views: 1,189 total · 13/month
Shared By: Fremont Shields on Nov 7, 2017
Admins: GRK, Zach Wahrer

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Description Suggest change

From the pillar where the regular route traverses left and off, continue up on bolts following the line of Charles Wallace the Party Rabbit. From a belay at 80-90 feet. CWtPR continues straight up while Modern Direct takes a slanting line to the apex of the headwall.

This route has either gear or a bolt every 10-15 feet. Stopper and small cam placements were excavated from the discontinuous cracks in the wall, but bolts were placed whenever the cracks run out for any distance. It is not a run out route, but you will need to spend some time placing gear to sew it up. Take a nut tool in case the cracks fill in again.

Location Suggest change

See topo main page.

Protection Suggest change

Standard rack to 3", maybe some extra TCUs. Small/medium stoppers particularly useful.

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