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Original Direct Finish
5.9+ YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA E1 5a British R
Avg: 4 from 2
votes
Routes in Ojibway Peak
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Charles Wallace the Party Rabbit S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Modern Direct T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Original Direct Finish T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R |
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Standard Route T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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T'es pas game T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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| Type: | Trad, Alpine, 250 ft (76 m), 2 pitches, Grade III |
| FA: | Oka, Droste 1970’s |
| Page Views: | 1,322 total · 15/month |
| Shared By: | Fremont Shields on Nov 7, 2017 · Updates |
| Admins: | GRK, Zach Wahrer |
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Description
This is a rewarding route, but it requires a cool head, complicated route finding, and experience at working out difficult protection options.
From the top of the pillar where the original route traverses off and left, boldly climb up and right to a vertical KB placement. A fall here will likely result in an injury. Next continue up to a horizontal where you'll probably nest and equalize some TCUs. Good protection point if you work at it a while. Now follow your nose looking for gear going up and generally right towards a feature that on closer inspection is created by blocks protruding from the wall. On the right side of these blocks you might find a small stance with a fixed stopper. A long KB and maybe a lost arrow will help make this belay secure. Consider leaving pins in-situ. I would not do this route without pins and hammer. No fixed pieces except the stopper are present as of this writing.
From the belay, then continue to climb boldly above weaving a little left and right to place gear. This pitch is steeper than the first, but it protects a little better -- still pretty spicy.
From the top of the pillar where the original route traverses off and left, boldly climb up and right to a vertical KB placement. A fall here will likely result in an injury. Next continue up to a horizontal where you'll probably nest and equalize some TCUs. Good protection point if you work at it a while. Now follow your nose looking for gear going up and generally right towards a feature that on closer inspection is created by blocks protruding from the wall. On the right side of these blocks you might find a small stance with a fixed stopper. A long KB and maybe a lost arrow will help make this belay secure. Consider leaving pins in-situ. I would not do this route without pins and hammer. No fixed pieces except the stopper are present as of this writing.
From the belay, then continue to climb boldly above weaving a little left and right to place gear. This pitch is steeper than the first, but it protects a little better -- still pretty spicy.
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