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Routes in Ojibway Peak

Charles Wallace the Party Rabbit S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Modern Direct T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Original Direct Finish T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Standard Route T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
T'es pas game T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
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Type: Trad, Alpine, 850 ft, 5 pitches, Grade III
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,652 total · 43/month
Shared By: ChewiePDX on Aug 28, 2015 with updates from s wilson
Admins: grk10vq, Zach Wahrer

You & This Route


8 Opinions

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Description

Pitch 1 (73 m) - Starts in the large right facing corner that meets up with the large roof. Climb using part of the crack and using the slabby face with ledges. Just before the large roof, there will be a belay ledge on climbers left. Carefully place gear to set a belay. Some simulclimbing will be required to do this pitch in one. Much easier with a 70 meter rope. (5.4 pro to 2.5”)

Pitch 2 (55 m) - Roof Pitch. Climb up the slabby, right leaning face to the base of the roof. If you brought a #4, place it here, otherwise, make a move to a perfect placement for a hand sized cam. Continue up the right slanting crack to a small live tree. Belay for the ledge with the tree.

Pitch 3 (35 m) - Traverse Pitch to Piton Ledge. Climb up and slanting to the left, in order to gain a ledge to traverse on. Traverse left, place unobvious pro, until you are under dead tree ledge, a ledge with one dead tree and the obvious right facing corner of the podium. Once you are under the ledge, climb straight up to the ledge. Here you will find two fixed pitons. Set you anchor here.

Pitch 4 (30 m) - Podium. Start just left of the large left facing corner to avoid a bushy start. Then, traverse right into the corner. The pro and climbing are great throughout this entire route. The route ends when you get to the top of the podium. Anchors can be a bit tricky here. Use the obvious horn to aid in the anchor.

Pitch 5 (60 m) - Traverse to Swooping Crack. From the top of the podium, traverse directly left on a ledge that is about one foot wide.There are decent gear placements, so remember to protect the follower. Stop traversing when you reach a left swooping crack that has vegetation growing out if it. Climb using the incut holds on either side of the crack, occasionally using the crack at times. Climb until you can make a short traverse left, to a ledge with a dead tree. Set your anchor here. This pitch can be broken up into two pitches, to avoid rope drag, by belaying at a good stance near the dead tree in the crack. Otherwise use a couple of 4 foot runners and deal with the drag.

Location

This route begins at the obvious right facing corner at the base of the peak.

Protection

Single rack to 3" works great. I used a good amount of tricams to overlap to 2.5".
s wilson  
 
Do this route! Jun 14, 2016
-Jeremy Nelson  
  5.7
Start slightly higher up on P1 to avoid the need to simul-climb or otherwise it's a rope stretcher!
Bring one 60 meter rope (mandatory for P1 & 2) and if linking P5 & 6 together.
Pitch 3 Find 2 Lost Arrow Pitons and you're on route.
Pitch 4 Classic, Best Pitch on route!
pitch 5 Traverse-stop @ first veggie crack system, to start Pitch 6 or combine as mentioned, seemed like it angles right then swoops left. Pro is spread out but good. Jul 3, 2016
Belay bolts added to the tops of pitches 1-4. Also, 1 bolt added about 10' out on the traverse of the 5th pitch. Excellent route, a must do! Bolts are a nice addition at the belays. Jul 4, 2016
Jedly  
Great route!! A single rack to #3 is perfect. I did use a #4 before the roof but also found a spot for a smaller cam around .5 if I remember correctly. There are bolted anchors at pitches 1-4. The direct route is fully bolted although I didn't get to climb it because my partners weren't feeling up to it. I want to go back to finish the direct face, which looks steller! It looked like there were maybe a dozen or more bolts to finish on the direct route. I didn't count them though. Jul 3, 2017
Mike Dahlquist
Oakland, CA
 
Mike Dahlquist   Oakland, CA
 
Someone added bolted belays to this, which seemed pretty unnecessary because plenty of gear can be found for belays throughout the route. Definitely detracts from the commitment of this route, but maybe that's not what today's climbers are looking for... Jun 25, 2018

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