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Routes in Ojibway Peak
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Charles Wallace the Party Rabbit S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Modern Direct T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Original Direct Finish T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R |
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Standard Route T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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T'es pas game T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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| Type: | Trad, Alpine, 850 ft, 5 pitches, Grade III |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 1,701 total · 41/month |
| Shared By: | ChewiePDX on Aug 28, 2015 |
| Admins: | grk10vq, Zach Wahrer |
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Description
Pitch 1 (73 m) - Starts in the large right facing corner that meets up with the large roof. Climb using part of the crack and using the slabby face with ledges. Just before the large roof, there will be a belay ledge on climbers left. Carefully place gear to set a belay. Some simulclimbing will be required to do this pitch in one. Much easier with a 70 meter rope. (5.4 pro to 2.5)
Pitch 2 (55 m) - Roof Pitch. Climb up the slabby, right leaning face to the base of the roof. If you brought a #4, place it here, otherwise, make a move to a perfect placement for a hand sized cam. Continue up the right slanting crack to a small live tree. Belay for the ledge with the tree.
Pitch 3 (35 m) - Traverse Pitch to Piton Ledge. Climb up and slanting to the left, in order to gain a ledge to traverse on. Traverse left, place unobvious pro, until you are under dead tree ledge, a ledge with one dead tree and the obvious right facing corner of the podium. Once you are under the ledge, climb straight up to the ledge. Here you will find two fixed pitons. Set you anchor here.
Pitch 4 (30 m) - Podium. Start just left of the large left facing corner to avoid a bushy start. Then, traverse right into the corner. The pro and climbing are great throughout this entire route. The route ends when you get to the top of the podium. Anchors can be a bit tricky here. Use the obvious horn to aid in the anchor.
Pitch 5 (60 m) - Traverse to Swooping Crack. From the top of the podium, traverse directly left on a ledge that is about one foot wide.There are decent gear placements, so remember to protect the follower. Stop traversing when you reach a left swooping crack that has vegetation growing out if it. Climb using the incut holds on either side of the crack, occasionally using the crack at times. Climb until you can make a short traverse left, to a ledge with a dead tree. Set your anchor here. This pitch can be broken up into two pitches, to avoid rope drag, by belaying at a good stance near the dead tree in the crack. Otherwise use a couple of 4 foot runners and deal with the drag.
Pitch 2 (55 m) - Roof Pitch. Climb up the slabby, right leaning face to the base of the roof. If you brought a #4, place it here, otherwise, make a move to a perfect placement for a hand sized cam. Continue up the right slanting crack to a small live tree. Belay for the ledge with the tree.
Pitch 3 (35 m) - Traverse Pitch to Piton Ledge. Climb up and slanting to the left, in order to gain a ledge to traverse on. Traverse left, place unobvious pro, until you are under dead tree ledge, a ledge with one dead tree and the obvious right facing corner of the podium. Once you are under the ledge, climb straight up to the ledge. Here you will find two fixed pitons. Set you anchor here.
Pitch 4 (30 m) - Podium. Start just left of the large left facing corner to avoid a bushy start. Then, traverse right into the corner. The pro and climbing are great throughout this entire route. The route ends when you get to the top of the podium. Anchors can be a bit tricky here. Use the obvious horn to aid in the anchor.
Pitch 5 (60 m) - Traverse to Swooping Crack. From the top of the podium, traverse directly left on a ledge that is about one foot wide.There are decent gear placements, so remember to protect the follower. Stop traversing when you reach a left swooping crack that has vegetation growing out if it. Climb using the incut holds on either side of the crack, occasionally using the crack at times. Climb until you can make a short traverse left, to a ledge with a dead tree. Set your anchor here. This pitch can be broken up into two pitches, to avoid rope drag, by belaying at a good stance near the dead tree in the crack. Otherwise use a couple of 4 foot runners and deal with the drag.
Bring one 60 meter rope (mandatory for P1 & 2) and if linking P5 & 6 together.
Pitch 3 Find 2 Lost Arrow Pitons and you're on route.
Pitch 4 Classic, Best Pitch on route!
pitch 5 Traverse-stop @ first veggie crack system, to start Pitch 6 or combine as mentioned, seemed like it angles right then swoops left. Pro is spread out but good. Jul 3, 2016
Oakland, CA