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Routes in Island Block

Acrobat TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Alt Access T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Arete, The TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Lean Across TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Mission Impossible TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Prenuptial Taste Test V0 4
Rigging Route T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c PG13
She Got The Bosch, I Got Drilled TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Temptation TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Variation TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Order Wrong? Sort Routes
Type: Trad, TR, 20 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 139 total · 11/month
Shared By: Brian Freund on Aug 20, 2017
Admins: Justin Johnsen, Kyle Stapp, SCPC

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Description

Alt Access is a fairly easy climb located just to the left of Rigging Route near the southwest corner of Island Block. Because of its short length, moderate grade, and ample protection opportunities, this route provides an alternative way to access the top of Island Block. With some Trad gear/experience it may actually be the safest way to access to top of the block since protection opportunities are rather abundant.

This route is obviously a good place for a beginner to practice Trad. While not spectacular, it may also be worth a climb on top rope if you are already on "The Block".

It should be noted that this route had been previously identified as an unnamed 5.6 on another website. Since nobody cares enough to name it, I'm calling it Alt Access. I'm also downgrading it to a 5.5 since it is straightforward and clearly easier than another appropriately graded 5.6 (Lean Across) on the same face.

  • If you do lead this, remember to take your rappel gear since there is no easy way down from Island Block.
  • Also, anytime you're climbing on Island Block think about climbing order. To avoid having to re-climb an access route, always send a capable climber up last to clean up or move anchor.

Location

Find Rigging Route on the southwest corner of Island Block. Work left a few feet on some ledges. Follow some flakes/cracks up and slightly left. When the flakes end take the easiest line you can find up and through an obvious gap in the ridge line.

Protection

Nuts, it can take some nuts. Cams, yep a few spots to stick a smallish cam. Or you could just use Tricams horizontally and/or vertically the whole way. Heck, stick 2 of something in when you run into the obvious crux since you'll be done in a few more moves anyway.

Alt Access takes just about anything and any rack should do. Well, except for hexes. I didn't see a place for them. Then again do hexes actually work well anywhere?

For a top rope anchor there are sturdy trees on top of Island Block, but none right near the top of this climb. Some longer slings or anchor building rope might be necessary for an overhanging TR anchor. Alternatively you can do a top belay which makes it easier take in rope without an overhanging anchor. The longish distance from the top of the climb to anchor trees is another reason why this feels like a Trad climb where a leader climbs first, then brings his second up on top belay.

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