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Routes in Island Block

Acrobat TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Alt Access T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Arete, The TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Lean Across TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Mission Impossible TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Prenuptial Taste Test V0 4
Rigging Route T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c PG13
She Got The Bosch, I Got Drilled TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Temptation TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Variation TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
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Type: TR, 25 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 97 total · 7/month
Shared By: Brian Freund on Aug 20, 2017
Admins: Justin Johnsen, Kyle Stapp, SCPC

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Description

Located on the west face of Island Block, Lean Across offers an a appropriately graded 5.6 experience with and interesting start.

Location

This route is located in the alley on the west side of Island Block. It starts approximately 15 feet from the left edge of the face, on a waist height ledge. Look for a large root with bark worn off. Upon close inspection the route also shows sign of smoothing, wear, and maybe even chalk on the large initial holds. You can also help locate many McConnell's Mill routes by looking for areas with less moss on the face.

Once you locate the route, head to Rigging Route (or Alt Access with Trad gear) to access the top of the block. Don't forget to take rappelling gear up onto the block.

Build an anchor above the climb on a small outcrop with 2 bolts/rings. Route top ropes on the left edge (south, toward Rigging Route) of the outcrop since this is the way the climb veers. Rap back down into alley.

To climb, stand on the ledge or the root for extra reach. Lean across, find some holds, and transition across the gap. Find the path of least resistance up towards the overhang. The easiest (as in 5.6 feeling) line veers slightly right and can be topped out near the right edge of the outcrop in order to regain block top access.

Protection

No pro on route. The top 1/2 of climb consists of very shallow horizontals that are perfect 5.6 grade finger tip holds, but far too small for even a Tricam.

The top of the climb features trees aplenty, as well as sturdy bolts and rings for anchor building.

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