Avg: 2 from 1 vote
Routes in Ship Rock
|Minute Man S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b|
|Unknown S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b|
|Type:||Sport, 25 ft|
|FA:||Will McFarland, October 2016|
|Page Views:||110 total, 21/month|
|Shared By:||Will McFarland on Jul 12, 2017|
DescriptionThis route is an obvious severely overhanging prow a bit past the Recycler area. Was shown to me by Jim and Josh, and I tried several times over a couple of years while visiting family in the area. Felt mid-5.13 until I finally unlocked the beta and sent. On the cusp of 13a, but just not quite there to me.
BETA: Start on pocketed slab adjacent and to the right of the roof. At the base of the roof, cop a rest and move straight out the roof on positive crimps and slots to the chain draw. To move past the chain draw, get a left knee scum with toe in a big pocket (knee pad helps), possible to clip 3rd bolt here if added, then reach through left hand to a good slot and right hand up to a 3 finger pinch. This section is 12a-ish. Get a heel toe cam or do a big drop knee with left foot off a good crimp rail down and left, then do a long move to a good crimp close to the top with your left hand (V6). From crimp, reach through right hand to finishing jug.