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Routes in Ship Rock

Minute Man S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Unknown S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Sport, 25 ft
FA: Will McFarland, October 2016
Page Views: 110 total, 21/month
Shared By: Will McFarland on Jul 12, 2017
Admins: Courtney Curtner

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Description

This route is an obvious severely overhanging prow a bit past the Recycler area. Was shown to me by Jim and Josh, and I tried several times over a couple of years while visiting family in the area. Felt mid-5.13 until I finally unlocked the beta and sent. On the cusp of 13a, but just not quite there to me.

BETA: Start on pocketed slab adjacent and to the right of the roof. At the base of the roof, cop a rest and move straight out the roof on positive crimps and slots to the chain draw. To move past the chain draw, get a left knee scum with toe in a big pocket (knee pad helps), possible to clip 3rd bolt here if added, then reach through left hand to a good slot and right hand up to a 3 finger pinch. This section is 12a-ish. Get a heel toe cam or do a big drop knee with left foot off a good crimp rail down and left, then do a long move to a good crimp close to the top with your left hand (V6). From crimp, reach through right hand to finishing jug.

Protection

2 bolts, needs one more after the chain to make working the route easier.

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