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Routes in Switchblade

Blade Runner S 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Cutting Out S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Fintastic S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Six Blade Knife S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Sliced Open S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Under The Knife S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Unnamed 5.10b S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Sport, 75 ft
FA: Tod Anderson
Page Views: 207 total, 29/month
Shared By: Furthermore on May 10, 2017
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Raptor Closures Details

Description

Climb the overhanging bulge on the left side of the prow. I found the crux a bit burly and tricky but well-protected. A second easier crux is found near the top. Make sure not to cut too far left onto ?Fintastic?.

Location

This is the bolted line just right of Fintastic.

Protection

9? quickdraws plus something for the anchors.

Photos

slim

  5.12a
slim    
  5.12a
Ha ha, yeah, you gotta change gears a bit for the finish. I remember my toes being smoked at the end of the day up there and really wishing I could get it over with more quickly. Jul 7, 2017
aikibujin
Castle Rock, CO
  5.12a
aikibujin   Castle Rock, CO
  5.12a
I think this route has 9 bolts plus anchors. Getting to the 2nd bolt could be tricky if you're short. I'm 5'7 with 0 ape index, and I had to get my feet as high as I could on the ramp below just to barely hit the good hold on my tippy toes. If you're shorter than me, you may need to pull on some small sidepulls and work some smeary feet. Blowing the move here probably has groundfall potential if your belayer is not paying attention.

The crux of this route is pretty tricky. It took me a few tries to finally figure out a sequence that works for me. I can see this as a crux that different climbers have different solutions for. Mine involved sidepulls, heelhooks, really bad crimps, deadpoint to underclings, opposition and body tension, and a desperate throw to a jug (not necessarily in that order). Fun!

But don't let your guard down yet, before the anchors there is another section of thin moves that felt pretty hard (in a different way). Luckily you get a really good rest before moving into this final section. Jul 7, 2017