Type: Sport, 110 ft
FA: Tod & Gordy Anderson
Page Views: 349 total · 18/month
Shared By: Matt Lawry on Nov 7, 2017
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Raptor Closures Details

Description

This spectacular line goes more-or-less up the center of the gently overhanging 'switchblade' formation. While there are some crispy bits that will continue to flake off, most of the climbing is on good rock. Being taller than 5'10" or having a large wingspan may prove advantageous in a few sections. I am 5'10" with a negative ape index and felt like there were some reaches close to my limit. Off the deck, you will encounter some 5.12 edging and may be tempted to use the feature left of the dihedral - I personally think that it climbs better without it, but do whatever makes you happy. After that, the difficulty backs off a tad until you encounter the roof. Delicate and technical climbing is required to work into the roof then some burl to get over it. Some 'thank God' jugs just over the roof help to keep the lactic acid in check. Easy and strenuous climbing ebbs and flows until your reach the redpoint crux, which is getting through the last two bolts to reach the anchors. In general, this has lots of jugs and patina edging bliss - well worth the hike.

Location

This route is two lines left of Fintastic and is recognizable by the line of bolts going through the obvious jog or break in the roof above.

Protection

20-23 bolts. On redpoint, you will likely skip 3 or 4. You can scramble up to belay beneath the route proper, but being lazy, we opted for belaying from the ground - not a bad idea IMO. Just make sure you have a 70 meter rope, and knot the ends!

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