Type: Trad, Mixed, Ice, 400 ft, 3 pitches, Grade III
FA: Paul Obanheim, Craig Reason. 1985
Page Views: 363 total · 11/month
Shared By: Dave Rone on Mar 13, 2017 with improvements by Luka Bogdanovic
Admins: Kate Lynn

You & This Route


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Description

For years a thin ice and mixed route, Twisted has been coming in more as an ice route in recent years. The relatively short approach and great climbing make Twisted a popular objective. There is avalanche hazard on the approach and from above so check conditions.

P1, 35m: Climb WI3 ice on the right to the snow ledge, traverse left to a collection of old pins under a rock roof. Belay from here and back up the pins.

P2: 55m: Climb technical and steep WI4-5+ ice to a ledge with a great ice belay stance to the right.

P3: 20m: Climb up the narrow gully of WI4 with rock on either side to a decent ice belay under a big boulder. Some parties belay off the steel cable a bit further up but it might be an awkward belay.

Location

Twisted is the left-most route on Mt. Stephen, and located on a prominent buttress easily visible on the left when coming down the hill into Field. Park in the lot at the bottom of the hill. Follow the trail to the highway, cross the bridge and head up to the tracks. Cross the tracks (don't touch the avalanche warning wires), and head up the slope, and then traverse to the base of the route.

Protection

Bring a standard mixed rack when it comes in thin, screws when it's fat. Descend from v-threads.

Photos