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Routes in California 12a

California 12a S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Going to California S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Holiday 12a S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Hotel California S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
T.R.Q. S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Team Tough 11a S,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
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Type: Sport, 35 ft
FA: Dave Quinn
Page Views: 343 total · 24/month
Shared By: David Quinn on Mar 13, 2017
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

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Access Issue: RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details

Description [Edit]

Super fun moves with lots of opportunity for trick moves\techniques. Some may find it easy for the grade, some may not. The route could seem 11d, (or easier) for the tall and bouldering strong, my grading is after all, "provisional" ;-)

Location [Edit]

30 feet left of California 12a, steep over-hanging vertical grooves.

Protection [Edit]

4 bolts, anchors (all glue in bolts and Pig Tail Lower Offs)

Photos

Sam Elander
Bullhead City, AZ
Sam Elander   Bullhead City, AZ
Are all of these glue-ins rated for a climbing fall? Some are way smaller than I've seen before.
ALSO, is using those thin glue-ins for anchors as well even safe?! Apr 19, 2018
John Wilder
Las Vegas, NV
John Wilder   Las Vegas, NV
I believe David uses Climb Tech Wave Bolts for his installations, although I haven't personally been out to this one. If they are Wave bolts, then yes, they're not only rated, but they're widely considered some of the best glue-ins available. Apr 19, 2018
David Quinn  
 
Hey Sam, John,
All the bolts and Pig Tail lower offs used on this route as well as the 4 to the left and projects to the right, are Bolt-Products Glue ins. All certified for climbing. I am the North American Distributor for Bolt-Products. Most are 6mm or 8mmx100mm Twist bolts. I used a couple 150mm Twist Bolt's on some cruxes. The Bolt-Products Twist Bolt is possibly the strongest glue in bolt available, the 8mmx150mm tested at a staggering 33+kn without glue! The 6mmx100mm tested to 18+kn without glue. So, long story short, all the bolts are certified / rated and the anchors are safe. John you are also correct in that I also use Wave Bolts and love them! IMHO, the Twist Bolt or Wave Bolt are the strongest, safest, most durable choices in soft or medium stone! Bomber! DQ Apr 20, 2018

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