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Routes in California 12a

California 12a S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Going to California S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Holiday 12a S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Hotel California S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
T.R.Q. S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Team Tough 11a S,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 5,118 total · 40/month
Shared By: Josh Janes on Jul 10, 2007
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

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RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details

Description

A fun roof problem leads to a steep, awkward crack (Yosemite climbers should have no problem with this one).

Protection

7 bolts to a bolted anchor.

Location

Due east of the Magic Bus but more directly approached from the Rescue Wall.
Josh Janes    
 
Leave your draws if you want - remove them when you’re done. It takes about 5 minutes to scramble to the top of this and lower down equipping the route as you go. Jan 3, 2018
John Hovell
San Francisco, California
  5.12c
John Hovell   San Francisco, California
  5.12c
Seems this route is no longer perma-drawed which is too bad since it basically requires re-climbing the route on TR to clean. Are perma-draws an issue at Red Rock? Or leaving your own draws on the route overnight? Fun movement and great combination of face climbing and jamming. Jan 3, 2018
Josh Janes    
 
The anchor has been moved higher to the no-hands rest and true finish to the route. Now the old anchor has become the last pro bolt and thus the climb has a total of 7 pro bolts leading to an anchor equipped with mussy hooks. Oct 28, 2015
Jonathan Adam
California
 
Jonathan Adam   California
 
Super fun route. Thanks, John, for the re-bolting effort. Jan 14, 2012
John Wilder
Las Vegas, NV
John Wilder   Las Vegas, NV
On 5/14/10 The ASCA replaced the 4th protection bolt on the route. The bolt was moved about 1' higher due to rock quality concerns. The anchor bolts were also replaced and mussy hooks were added. All bolts replaced are 1/2" x 3.5 5-piece bolts. The first bolt was not replaced (we could not safely do it without several crash pads), so bring a stick clip for this route- the second bolt (now the 1st) is roughly 15' up. Mar 29, 2010