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Routes in Lizardhead Cove

Chuckwalla T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Underbelly T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 230 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Derek Field, Alan Ponce, James Moxley (Jan 2017)
Page Views: 273 total, 28/month
Shared By: Derek Field on Feb 21, 2017
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

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Description

Chuckwalla and Underbelly are a pair of cracks located on the sunny wall known as Lizardhead Cove.

Underbelly is the right crack of the two. It's the obvious left-arcing flake that overlaps the center of the wall. The first ascent was completed during a torrential thunderstorm, during which the underside of the flake stayed remarkably dry.

Pitch 1: Shared with Chuckwalla. Start at the notch between the detached pillar (Samurai Warrior) and the main wall. Quest out on a horizontal traverse, riding the Fort Apache limestone band out into thin air. The first half is fairly easy and protects well with small cams in a continuous horizontal groove. About halfway across, mount a small detached flake and follow two bolts across a more technical section. This pitch ends at a two-bolt chain anchor on the far edge of the wall. (5.8, 80 feet)

Pitch 2: Slab up and right off the belay to the base of the incipient crack system. Place a couple nuts/TCUs and pull the one-move-wonder crux. Cruise the left-arching crack with a luxurious rippled slab for your feet. Near the top, step right into a low-angle fingertips dihedral. Finish at a two-bolt chain anchor on deluxe vista ledge. (5.8, 80 feet)

Since this route shares its anchors with Chuckwalla, you have the option of continuing up the third pitch of that route (5.9+ PG-13) to get to the top of Lizardhead.

Location

Obvious left-arcing flake dead center of Lizardhead Cove.

Protection

Single rack to 4"
2 bolts
Single 60m rope
A real leg day with this one! That traverse is a great warm-up. The crux is fun and the low angle wall and splitter crack test you a little bit. All around really fun and a challenging 5.9! Feb 24, 2017