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Routes in Lizardhead Cove

Chuckwalla T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Underbelly T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 220 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Derek Field, Ray Eckland (Jan 2017)
Page Views: 241 total, 26/month
Shared By: Derek Field on Feb 21, 2017
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

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Chuckwalla and Underbelly are a pair of cracks located on the sunny wall known as Lizardhead Cove.

Chuckwalla is the left crack of the two, recognized as a sort of hanging wannabe-splitter on the far left side of the wall, out on the arete.

Pitch 1: Shared with Underbelly. Start at the notch between the detached pillar (Samurai Warrior) and the main wall. Quest out on a horizontal traverse, riding the Fort Apache limestone band out into thin air. The first half is fairly easy and protects well with small cams in a continuous horizontal groove. About halfway across, mount a small detached flake and follow two bolts across a more technical section. This pitch ends at a two-bolt chain anchor on the far edge of the wall. (5.8, 80 feet)

Pitch 2: Launch yourself straight upward from the belay through a bit of cruddy rock (good nuts and TCUs) to gain the sinker handcrack. Jam through a bulge into easier terrain, negotiate a short offwidth pod, then clamber over hollow flakes to the ledge with two-bolt chain anchor. Tread lightly; the uppermost part of the crack still has some wobbly features. (5.8, 70 feet)

Rappel from here to keep the grade at 5.8.

Pitch 3: A heady lead. Taking care to not feed yourself to the hungry agave pack, make tenuous slab moves in a shallow corner. Swing softly through a steep, loose section (10-15 feet of unnerving blocks), passing a hollow roof. Fight the pump to the security of a splitter handcrack (best part of the whole route!) and jam your way to the topout ledge with slung tree anchor. (5.9+ PG-13, 70 feet)

Class-3 scrambling brings you to the summit of Lizard Head.


Far left side of Lizardhead Cove.


Single rack to 4"
2 bolts