Regular Route
5.7 YDS 5a French 15 Ewbanks V+ UIAA 13 ZA MVS 4b British R
| Type: | Trad, 230 ft (70 m), 2 pitches |
| GPS: | 20.1865, -98.73667 |
| FA: | Herlindo Nuñez, Pedro Tabloada & Jesus Aguilera, 1936 |
| Page Views: | 787 total · 7/month |
| Shared By: | Mauricio Herrera Cuadra on Feb 7, 2017 |
| Admins: | Ricardo Orozco, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra |
Description
This was the first route up the spire. It's a face climb on mostly vertical rock with big holds. Although the climbing is easy, it has very long runouts thus you must feel very comfortable with the grade.
Location
The route starts at the north face of the spire.
P1) Go up a short gully on the left side of the formation, then traverse right on a ramp to gain access to the formation. Head straight up the face/dihedral, aiming for the first bolt a about 20m above the ground. Climb a couple vertical sections with good holds till you reach a small ledge with rappel anchors. Continue up and slightly right till you find a bigger ledge in a corner and belay from there (5.7 R, 50m).
P2) Go straight up the corner till you stand atop a small fin of rock, clip a bolt and step across to the left hand wall, reaching the summit after a few more feet (5.4, 15m).
DESCENT: Rappel the route, using the previous belay stations, as well as the intermediate anchor from the 1st pitch.



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