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Routes in El Fistol del Diablo

Regular Route T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Type: Trad, 230 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Herlindo Nuñez, Pedro Tabloada & Jesus Aguilera, 1936
Page Views: 80 total · 6/month
Shared By: Mauricio Herrera Cuadra on Feb 7, 2017
Admins: Mauricio Herrera Cuadra

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Description

This was the first route up the spire. It's a face climb on mostly vertical rock with big holds. Although the climbing is easy, it has very long runouts thus you must feel very comfortable with the grade.

Location

The route starts at the north face of the spire.

P1) Go up a short gully on the left side of the formation, then traverse right on a ramp to gain access to the formation. Head straight up the face/dihedral, aiming for the first bolt a about 20m above the ground. Climb a couple vertical sections with good holds till you reach a small ledge with rappel anchors. Continue up and slightly right till you find a bigger ledge in a corner and belay from there (5.7 R, 50m).

P2) Go straight up the corner till you stand atop a small fin of rock, clip a bolt and step across to the left hand wall, reaching the summit after a few more feet (5.4, 15m).

DESCENT: Rappel the route, using the previous belay stations, as well as the intermediate anchor from the 1st pitch.

Protection

6-8 quickdraws or alpine draws. There are very little options for cams or nuts so it isn't really necessary to bring any.

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