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Routes in Trojan Wall (Right of Bat Cave)

Golden Fleece S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Iliad, The S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Little Iliad S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Midas Touch S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Odyssey, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Stones of Sisyphus S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Trojan Horse S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
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Type: Sport, 325 ft, 3 pitches, Grade II
FA: Rich & Susan Strang, Mike Phalan
Page Views: 365 total · 18/month
Shared By: Rich Strang on Feb 7, 2017
Admins: Shirtless Mike, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

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Description

Climbs to right side of the hanging caves on The Trojan Wall. This route goes to the very top of the wall and is 3 to 5 pitches long depending on how one might link pitches together! Pitches 2 and 3 link together well - pitch 4 may link with the final pitch without too much drag. However you climb it - A VERY FUN OUTING!!
1st PITCH (85 feet) - 5.9+**/***
Start to the right of Stones of Sisyphus and climb a right diagonaling access pitch on good rock to a ledge which is to the right of the first upper cave. There is a tricky traverse move at the 4th bolt. Alternately one can climb to the right at the 3rd bolt and avoid the traverse move (perhaps easier). Climb past the overlap with some fun moves and follow easy rock up to the ledge with a large cactus on the left side (9 bolts).
2nd PITCH (55 feet) - 5.10c****
"The Slab Pitch"
Climb great small edges past 7 bolts to a belay stance up and right. There are a few tricky balance moves at the 3rd and 4th bolt but you are always reaching to good positive holds. Some GREAT! rock and fun slab moves on this pitch (8 bolts).
3rd PITCH (55 feet) - 5.10c/d****
"Central Pillar Pitch"
Move left from the belay and climb straight up toward the pillar above. Do some tricky moves to stand on a small ledge and get past it. Continue climbing up into the right facing corner above ("The Central Pillar"). Climb the fun corner to a 5.9ish exit onto a small ledge at the top of the dihedral. Another great pitch! This one links with the 2nd pitch well (7 bolts).
4th PITCH (60 feet) - 5.10b/c***
"Hollow Flake Pitch"
Move up off the left side of the belay climbing "gently" along and over the "Hollow Flake". From the top of the flake follow bolts up and right to a tricky bulge move (moving far right is easiest way). Continue straight up past the bulge to a small overhang, then traverse up and left to a small belay alcove. Still a few dirty spots on this pitch but some fun climbing (7 bolts).
5th PITCH (70 feet) - 5.10**/***
"Summit Pitch"
Climb up and right off the belay. The rock looks loose and funky but its actually quite solid (still a bit of "onion skin" in places though). Make a tricky move below the roof to get hands to the ledge and stand on it by pulling into the wide crack. Continue up the crack using some jams and face holds to the left on the slabby face. As the angle kicks back continue climbing the face to arrive at anchors on the right side of the summit block (8 or 9 bolts?).
DESCENT (3 single rope rappels to the ground)
Rappel off the summit anchors to to the top of pitch 4 (you might have to down clip to get into the anchor). Alternately one can rappel to the top of The Pillar pitch from the summit anchors (this risks getting the rope stuck in the upper crack if you're not carefully!). From either the 4th belay or The Pillar belay, make a 2nd rappel to the anchors down and 30' right which are 36 meters from the ground. From these anchors make one doubled 70M rope rappel to the broken ledges near the higher ground on the right side of Trojan Wall. With a 60M rope you might try to rappel 5 to 4, 4 to 2(close), 2 would make it to downclimbable ledges near the ground - or do 4 shorter rappels.

Location

Right side on Trojan Wall. Follow Black Fixe Hangers which start about 30 feet right of Stones of Sisyphus. The start is on the same ledge as for the other Trojan Wall routes (The Bat Cave access ledge).

Protection

Bolts and QDs to 2 & 3 bolt anchors at all belay stations. 12 QD's work OK if doing it in 5 pitches. Take 15-20 if linking pitches.

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