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Routes in Trojan Wall (Right of Bat Cave)

Golden Fleece S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Iliad, The S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Little Iliad S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Midas Touch S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Odyssey, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Stones of Sisyphus S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Trojan Horse S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Type: Sport, 170 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Rich & Susan Strang
Page Views: 101 total, 14/month
Shared By: Rich Strang on May 8, 2017
Admins: Shirtless Mike, Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

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Description

This is a 2 pitch route (3 pitches next year) which starts on Midas Touch and diagonals out right to climb to the upper ledge system near the top of the cliff. It is on the right side of the Trojan Wall.
1st PITCH (85 feet) - 5.9+**/***
Climb the first pitch of Midas Touch to get to the "cactus ledge". Move the belay to a separate set of anchor bolts (no chains) on the right end of the ledge.
2nd PITCH (85 feet) - 5.11+****
Step out right off the ledge and climb up onto the slab. Continue straight up the slab on good holds to a difficult blank section around the 4th or 5th bolt. After this thin section begin trending right to the steep open book corner. Climb the right wall of the corner with a bit of difficulty. At the top of the corner move back left with some powerful moves to the big hueco (crux). Once at the hueco traverse a bit right and continue up to the belay. FUN!!
3rd PITCH (85 feet)
Not Finished, Missing Bolts, No Anchors!
DESCENT
From the 2nd pitch belay, a 70M route will reach some high ground that can be scrambled off easily. A 60M rope would require more down climbing (only about 5.0) or make 2 rappels.

Location

The next route right of Midas Touch on the right side of Trojan Wall. It starts with the first pitch of Midas Touch (black bolt hangers) to the first belay ledge. The route then follows gray bolt hangers that diagonal up and right off the right side of ledge.

Protection

About 11 or 12 bolts to chain anchors on both pitches

Photos

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