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Routes in Trojan Wall (Right of Bat Cave)

Golden Fleece S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Iliad, The S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Little Iliad S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Midas Touch S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Odyssey, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Stones of Sisyphus S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Trojan Horse S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Type: Sport, 180 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Rich Strang
Page Views: 346 total · 15/month
Shared By: Rich Strang on Mar 7, 2016
Admins: Shirtless Mike, Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

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Description

This route is the 2nd pitch above The Iliad. The rock, movement and position above the entire valley make this one of the must do .12s in the Bat Cave area. Probably as good as New Beginning but not quite so hard.
1st PITCH (70') -
Climb The Iliad or Little Iliad to the belay chains.
2nd PITCH (110') -
From the upper belay on The Iliad(at 110')move up to clip a bolt then step a bit right and back left to the next bolt. Move right into the corner after the 2nd bolt as the route begins to steepen. Climb the fun 5.11 corner on good holds that begin to get smaller. At the 5th bolt make a difficult move left out of the corner to a small bulge. Surmount this difficult bulge on extremely small crimps. Make techy moves back right to a pod in the corner. Climb over the final bulge and move left to the chains at a belay stance/ledge.
Note: The large block at the top that you climb onto is solid but the right side has a crack in it. At present the fractured right side is solid but try not to use it as is could come off in time. Better to climb left on jugs under the block and then pull up onto the solid center section of the block.

Location

Climbs the steep corner up and right of the finish to The Iliad/Trojan Horse pitch. Start at the base of The Trojan Wall and climb either The Iliad(5.10+) or Trojan Horse(5.11+) to access the upper wall

Protection

9 bolts above the upper Iliad belay anchors lead to a 2 bolt belay station with chains and lowering binders.

Photos

Rich Strang
Santa Fe, NM
 
Rich Strang   Santa Fe, NM
 
I climbed this in one MEGA 180' pitch!! Maybe not the best way since rope drag can be rough clipping the upper (crux) bolts. However its nice that the belayer doesn't have to climb if they are not following you. The best option is probably do the first 65' (Little Iliad) as the first pitch which finishes on a narrow ledge. Next climb the upper part of Iliad directly into The Odyssey. Another option is to belay at the top of The Iliad in a hanging belay. This works OK if the second is leading through since the changeover in the hanging stance is a hassel. With the belayer on the ground you can lower from the upper Odyseey anchors to the 110' level chains with a 60M rope and then rap to the ground. With a 70M rope you can lower to the low anchors and then rap if desired.
A very Cool route! Mar 7, 2016