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Routes in Yataghan

Blood on the Blade T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Happy Gnome, The T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Southeast Face T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Trad, Alpine, 500 ft, 4 pitches, Grade II
FA: FA 1979 Paul Horak, Mark Leonard, David Baltz
Page Views: 159 total · 13/month
Shared By: David Baltz on Jan 29, 2017
Admins: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

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Description

This route follows the south arête to Lunch Ledge.
P1: Cross a 4th-class slab to the left edge of a triangular face (you can start the 1st pitch here). Make steep moves left past a fixed pin to gain the wall above and wander up and left heading for the obvious right-facing corner. At a bolt, move left around the corner and face climb up for 30 feet then move back right around the corner onto the face and a fixed pin (5.8R). Continue up and right to a bolt below a small roof. Turn the roof (5.10) and belay 10 feet above at the first good crack.
P2: Continue up the gulley 80'to the base of a triangular face.
P3: Traverse left to the crack of Happy Gnome and continue up the crack to a small ledge with a fixed pin on the very edge of the arête.
P4: Move up and right on steep rock with good holds to a bolt. Pull the 5.8 mantle above and continue up the arête to Lunch Ledge.
P5: Finish up the standard Happy Gnome to the summit.

Location

Up the descent gully to the base of a 4th class slab.

Protection

RP's to 3" cam.

Photos

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Mark Dalen
Albuquerque, NM
Mark Dalen   Albuquerque, NM
One of the more imposing route names out there ... seems like I recall PH proposing an extended name: 'Bloody Baltz on the Bloody Blade Bleeding' ... somehow I never got on it ... good add, though ... Mark Apr 21, 2017
David Baltz
Albuquerque, New Mexico
 
David Baltz   Albuquerque, New Mexico
 
Pins are faster than bolts! There were two reasons for the name. First, yataghan is a sword and the route follows the arete or blade. Second, I tend to bleed when I climb. Feb 7, 2017
Bill Lawry
New Mexico
Bill Lawry   New Mexico
Blood on the Blade? Were you all still learning how to use pitons? Just kidding ... but am interested in what might have been behind the name.

Edit to add: Thank you, David Baltz. I tend to as well. :-) Feb 5, 2017