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Routes in Yataghan
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Blood on the Blade T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Happy Gnome, The T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Southeast Face T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
| Type: | Trad, 500 ft (152 m), 4 pitches, Grade II |
| GPS: | 35.2098, -106.4566 |
| FA: | FA 1979 Paul Horak, Mark Leonard, David Baltz |
| Page Views: | 888 total · 8/month |
| Shared By: | David Baltz on Jan 29, 2017 |
| Admins: | Jason Halladay, Mike Hoskins, Anna Brown |
Access Issue: 2026/2027 SANDIA CREST CLOSURE ALERT - Beginning as early as APRIL 1, 2026, 140 acres at the top of the Sandia Mountains will be under a closure order.
Details
Description
This route follows the south arête to Lunch Ledge.
P1: Cross a 4th-class slab to the left edge of a triangular face (you can start the 1st pitch here). Make steep moves left past a fixed pin to gain the wall above and wander up and left heading for the obvious right-facing corner. At a bolt, move left around the corner and face climb up for 30 feet then move back right around the corner onto the face and a fixed pin (5.8R). Continue up and right to a bolt below a small roof. Turn the roof (5.10) and belay 10 feet above at the first good crack.
P2: Continue up the gulley 80'to the base of a triangular face.
P3: Traverse left to the crack of Happy Gnome and continue up the crack to a small ledge with a fixed pin on the very edge of the arête.
P4: Move up and right on steep rock with good holds to a bolt. Pull the 5.8 mantle above and continue up the arête to Lunch Ledge.
P5: Finish up the standard Happy Gnome to the summit.
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