Avg: 0.5 from 2 votes
|Type:||Trad, Alpine, 600 ft (182 m), 5 pitches, Grade III|
|FA:||Reed Cundiff and David Hammack, 10/1/60|
|Page Views:||1,269 total · 9/month|
|Shared By:||Chris Wenker on Jul 20, 2009|
|Admins:||Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski|
P1: ~5.6, 75 feet. Poor rock. Climb a deep chimney to a nice ledge on the left.
P2: ~5.7-, 125 feet. Poor rock. Continue up the chimney, trend right past the top to a belay on a sloping broken ledge. One fixed pin.
P3: ~5.7+, 140 feet. Poor to fair rock. Proceed up the shallow gully above, past a big hollow flake on the right. At the top of the gully, traverse left and climb to a ledge with a prominent fir tree. Rope drag can be a killer.
P4: ~5.7-, 110 feet. Poor to fair rock. Hill's guide outlines a right and left option; we took the one to the right. Head slightly right from the ledge, up a blocky shallow dihedral; traverse left at the top, pass a bolt (see photo), and belay at the right side of the Lunch Ledge. The left option also looks fun.
P5: ~5.7+/5.8-, 170 feet. Excellent rock; great exposure. Kline describes this as three pitches, and Hill says two (which it probably was, back when they used shorter ropes). Easily done in one with a 60m line. Up slightly right, then left toward the little tree, and fire for the top. Two fixed pins. Many people probably better know this last section as the final pitch of The Happy Gnome, but Cundiff and Hammack got it first.
Descend the standard walk-off and final rap, as described on the main page. Alternately, Kline says that, from the Lunch Ledge, "one may descend by a traverse across the South-west Face on wide ledges and then rappel when the ledges peter out."