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Routes in Yataghan
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Blood on the Blade T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Happy Gnome, The T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Southeast Face T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
| Type: | Trad, 700 ft (212 m), 6 pitches, Grade III |
| FA: | Rick Meleski, Doug Bridgers, 74 |
| Page Views: | 5,772 total · 26/month |
| Shared By: | Chuck McQuade on Dec 30, 2006 · Updates |
| Admins: | Jason Halladay, Mike Hoskins, Anna Brown |
Description
If swinging leads, let your partner lead the first pitch, all the even numbered pitches are awesome!
P1: (5.7) Scrambling and easy dihedral climbing to an anchor with 1 bolt.
P2: (5.8+) Continue up, then a long traverse left. Climb the slightly runout face to an alcove belay.
P3: (5.7) Traverse up and right past a small tree to a hanging belay adjacent to the pitch 4 traverse. Hard route finding here.
A (5.9) variation to pitch 4 requires a slightly lower belay, the variation starts with a traverse left under a small roof, then continue up along a finger crack to join the standard pitch 4 at the crux roof.
P4: (5.8+) Make an improbable traverse to the left (small cams in horizontals), then pull a small roof (crux) to belay at a tree.
P5: (5.7) Climb up to an enormous ledge (Lunch Ledge).
P6: (5.8) Walk to end of Lunch Ledge (climbers right), follow corner systems on the ridge to the top. You'll pass an old ring piton and a 2nd piton. Good exposure on this pitch.
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