Type: Trad, 60 ft (18 m)
GPS: 36.12657, -115.48899
FA: Paul Van Betten, Bob Yoho - 1987
Page Views: 848 total · 8/month
Shared By: Josh Janes on Dec 31, 2016
Admins: Luke EF, Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

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Description Suggest change

This is a super fun, well-protected route that packs a lot of pump into a short length. Step off a ramp to an undercling flake and work up towards two bolts on the hueco-covered face. The climbing above the second bolt is a bit run out but this could be tamed with a 0.5 Camalot in a pocket, possibly a #1 or #2 Camalot in a pocket, and possibly a medium-large wire up higher. The pump is severe but eventually a stem across the chasm provides a dramatic reprieve. Continue up to a rap tree at the back of the alcove.

This route could use rebolting and a proper anchor at the top of the wall which is the natural finish.

Location Suggest change

Begin a few hundred feet up the Beer and Ice Gully in a deep alcove on the right side.

Protection Suggest change

Cams from 0.2 Camalot to 0.75 Camalot are adequate, but a larger cam or a larger wire might be useful (I didn't have them). Two bolts.

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