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Fife
5.4 YDS 4a French 12 Ewbanks IV UIAA 10 ZA VD 3c British
Avg: 1.4 from 8 votes
Type: | Sport, 60 ft (18 m) |
FA: | Steve Johnson, 2012 |
Page Views: | 952 total · 11/month |
Shared By: | rob bauer on Nov 30, 2016 · Updates |
Admins: | adrian montaƱo, Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen |
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Access Issue: Potentially unavailable to climbing February through July if raptors are breeding here.
Details
This area is historically used by nesting falcons, hawks, owls or other raptors. Breeding season varies but is roughly February through July. Nesting raptors are protected by law.
If you aren't sure if raptors are breeding here, then listen and watch for defensive behavior such as screeching or diving (links to info). If raptors are breeding in this area please climb somewhere else and let other climbers know.
Pressures on wildlife can be immense and are multiplied by effects of climate change and pollutants. Choosing to climb away from nest sites reduces unnecessary stresses to the birds. Give these animals a chance to thrive.
More info here: theclimbershome.org/breedin…
If you aren't sure if raptors are breeding here, then listen and watch for defensive behavior such as screeching or diving (links to info). If raptors are breeding in this area please climb somewhere else and let other climbers know.
Pressures on wildlife can be immense and are multiplied by effects of climate change and pollutants. Choosing to climb away from nest sites reduces unnecessary stresses to the birds. Give these animals a chance to thrive.
More info here: theclimbershome.org/breedin…
Description
If you start left of the black water streak, just below the sloping shelf, directly beneath the 4" gaping arch, you get a very different climb than listed in STLIII. Try 5.3/.4
at a consistent grade, straight up to anchors: short and sweet.
at a consistent grade, straight up to anchors: short and sweet.
Location
This was the first bolt line we found after starting down the trail on the right side of Avalon. It goes through an obvious 4" arch, just left of a water streak. (We didn't see or find any bolts at all for the first 2 routes listed in the new Squeezing The Lemmon III.)
As drawn in STLIII, drop down the trail another 15' and slab climb up right to the same 4 bolts... longer, slabbier, and harder. Maybe some small pieces could provide protection in those cracks? There is a log currently laying at this start.
As drawn in STLIII, drop down the trail another 15' and slab climb up right to the same 4 bolts... longer, slabbier, and harder. Maybe some small pieces could provide protection in those cracks? There is a log currently laying at this start.
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