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Routes in Avalon

Arthur (mash-up or unknown?) S 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Black Knight T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Chastity S 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Gauen, Not So Fearles T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Green Knight S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Holy Grail, The S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Lady of the Lake S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Launcelot Deulake S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Little Miss Treatment T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Maid Marian S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Merlin's Miracle S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Pillage Idiot, The S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Relic T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Sir Mordede T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sorcerer's Apprentice S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sword in the Stone S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Tourney Slot, The S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Unknown S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
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Elevation: 8,407 ft
GPS: 32.433, -110.794 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 4,803 total · 183/month
Shared By: Nick Henscheid on Jul 24, 2016
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick
Getting weather forecast...
Access Issue: Potentially unavailable to climbing February through July if raptors are breeding here. Details


Avalon is a great high elevation crag featuring some of the best rock quality on the mountain, a good variety of decent quality climbs, and a few gems. It was mostly developed by the late Steve Johnson and friends around 2012. The routes at Avalon tend to be slab-oriented, with the occasional steep, cruxy bulge move. You can get by with just quickdraws (12-15 or so), but a light rack opens up more good terrain. The rock is mostly south facing, so the routes get a lot of sun, but the base is shaded by some majestic evergreen trees so you can stay cool even on the hottest days of summer. As usual, the best details are found in Squeezing the Lemmon III - only about half the routes are listed here.

Getting There

Park at the summit and follow directions for Rappel Rock. When you get to the saddle directly in front of Rappel Rock - where you would normally drop your bags and head down the left side, you will instead head down a good trail to the *right*. You'll immediately see a large, white, low-angle slab with a few scattered bolts, on your right. This is the far right hand side of Avalon. Follow the trail close to the rock to drop down to the rest of the climbs.

18 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Avalon

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sorcerer's Apprentice
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Maid Marian
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Green Knight
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
The Tourney Slot
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
The Holy Grail
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Sorcerer's Apprentice
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Maid Marian
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Green Knight
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
The Tourney Slot
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
The Holy Grail
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Sport
More Classic Climbs in Avalon »

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Abby S.  
Thanks for posting, Nick. Nice pictures of the routes! Jul 25, 2016
1Eric Rhicard
1Eric Rhicard   Tucson
Hey Mr. Brian, Sorry you had trouble. However, these directions are correct when they say 250 feet past the steel shed with the spring. The overview map on P. 442 also shows a trail on the left past the Steel shed. You may have missed the electrical box listed in the description. Not sure how you missed the trail to the left after the steel shed, pretty sure there is only one between the spring and the trail described. I will double check that there is a transformer near where you turn left and up grade the info if necessary. Focusing on just one clue to the trails whereabouts appears to be your problem as well as the fact plants grow and a loose hillside made have hidden it more.

"Just returned from Avalon. It was my first time at Summit Crags, and I relied on STL III for approach beta. I think that the directions for getting to Rappel Rock and Avalon (p. 442) are wrong. The book directs you to a trail 25 feet past a green electrical box, 250 feet after passing the shed with the spring. These directions take you to the saddle between Ravens and Fortress (as pictured correctly on the map on p. 440). This is a lovely spot, but not where I wanted to go. Follow the map, not the written directions."

There are electrical boxes/transformers about ever 300 yards. Jun 29, 2018

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