All Locations > Colorado > Alpine Rock > RMNP - Rock > Cathedral Wall

Lever Action

Name: Lever Action
Rating: 2.0

5.10a YDS 6a French 18 Ewbanks VI+ UIAA 18 ZA E1 5a British PG13

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Routes in Cathedral Wall

	Altar Boy T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
	Big Easy, The T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Blackstar T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Dalke Route T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
	Flying Nun T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
	Garden Wall T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
	Jagged Arch T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
	Kor Route T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
	Lever Action T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
	Pew, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
	Running With The Bulls T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R
	Sublime Buttress T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
	Tourist Tragedy T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Tourist Tragedy Too T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
	Winchester T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R

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Type:	Trad, Alpine, 900 ft (273 m), 6 pitches, Grade IV
GPS:	40.2874, -105.66821
FA:	Greg Sievers, John Tormelheto, Dan Capalini, 7/1996
Page Views:	1,086 total · 9/month
Shared By:	Greg Sievers on Nov 23, 2016 · Updates
Admins:	Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC Page Updates (admin only)

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Access Issue: Closures Details

Seasonal closures Feb. 15-July 31. Per the Denver Post:, the Cathedral Wall and all areas above the Loch Vale-Sky Pond Trail are closed to off-trail travel! Per this RMNP website, "Initial closures now occur in Feb. 15 and April, when raptors return to the region and scout for nesting sites. Areas containing general habitat preferred by raptors are closed during this time. Once raptors have selected nesting spots, the initial closures are lifted or adjusted. The specific areas which raptors choose for nesting sites are closed."

For additional information about raptor closures, please visit the Rocky Mountain National Parks area closures website.

General NPS climbing regulations for RMNP posted here.

Access Issue: 2022 Seasonal Falcon Closure Details

From the Denver Post, the Cathedral Wall is CLOSED beginning February 15, 2022. Reopening is expected July 31st if needed. Click the following link for more details: nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…

When closed, the closures include the named rock formations and the areas surrounding the base of the formation. This includes all climbing routes, outcroppings, cliffs, faces, ascent and descent routes, and climber's access trails to the formation.

Areas not listed are presumed to be open. These closures will be lifted or extended as conditions dictate.

Description

When we couldn't quite find the start of Winchester, we followed the obvious, slanting crack, which just led us to wonderful terrain.

approach: begin in the chimney adjacent to the huge cleft between 2nd and 3rd buttresses. on the right side work up and right any away from an often oozing chimney:

P1: ascend a thin, smooth seam that angles up and right across smooth slab, 5.9R.
P2: start out on the right then pierce thru easy overhangs. Continue up and left, and up and left through the 'inverted staircase'. It looks much scarier than it is, 5.8.
P3: climb the very steep, left-facing dihedral ending on a rounded dome-like top of a pillar.
P4:
P5: broken rock yields easier terrain and ends on a very large ledge.
P6: walk around to the left/south side of the buttress, and choose a chimney that will take you to the summit.

Walk off to the west and drop into The Gash for the long way back or scramble north onto the top of the 4th buttress and find zig-zag descent shared with the gully to the south and a 3rd to 4th class descend to the base.

I will fill in these details as soon as I find my damn notes.