Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: Derek Field, Emma Lodes (2016)
Page Views: 457 total · 18/month
Shared By: Derek Field on Nov 20, 2016
Admins: Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Greg Opland

You & This Route


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Description

Karma Corner is a moderate open book tucked into a quaint little nook. Reached by a short scramble off the main trail, it's good for a lap if you've got time to spare after doing Nirvana and/or Watch Out Grandpa. The crack is pretty well coated in sharp white calcite - if you've climbed towers around Moab (e.g. Castleton) then you probably have some idea what this is all about. Tape gloves strongly recommended.

Start where the corner meets the ground with shallow fingerlocks on slightly crispy rock. Undercling/jam around the bottom left corner of the Karma Flake (don't study it too long...) and shimmy up behind it into a demanding crack that wavers between hands and offwidth, offering some fine laybacking opportunities. Save your strength (and a 5" cam) for the final push.

The mental crux is getting past the Karma Flake. The physical crux is the final 30 feet of old-school burlfest. Get on it!!

Location

Follow the main Boynton Canyon trail for about 15 minutes, passing below Grandpa Buttress (the obvious prow sticking out above the resort). The trail will soon pass alongside the set of slabs used to approach Watch Out Grandpa. Keep following the trail past these slabs for a few hundred yards until the next set of trailside slabs. (Note: If you find the trail making a hard turn to the left at the base of a dark red wall, you've gone too far. Backtrack a short ways to the slab turnoff). Scramble up these slabs onto the nose of a minor slickrock ridge (3rd class). When you get cliffed out (note: Karma Corner should be visible through the trees from here), pick up a fairly well established trail that skirts the short cliffband a few hundred feet to the right and then ascends directly through the forest into the alcove. Total: 25 minutes

This is the obvious left-facing "orange slice" dihedral on the far right side of Enchanted Alcove.

Protection

Single rack to 5"
Double 1-3" recommended
Single 60m rope
Tape gloves

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