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Routes in Grandpa Buttress

Watch Out, Grandpa T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Type: Trad, 200 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Burcham/Dyer
Page Views: 623 total · 36/month
Shared By: Bill Lundeen on Sep 19, 2016
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


9 Opinions

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Description

P1: Climb up & right past 5 bolts to obvious crack, watching for serious rope drag if not careful. Up crack bulge (10+ crux) to awesome hands to final steep boulder move. Belay at bolted rap station on comfy ledge. 100'
P2: Up short, easy chimney (5.7 no gear) to another big ledge and belay bolts. 40'
P3: Stem, squirm, & wrangle up awesome O/W (5.10-) to roof moves and end of route on pillar top. 50'. Scramble up to summit and great (it's Sedona!) views.

DESCENT: Two 100 ft. rappels on chain anchors

Location

Follow the Boynton Canyon trail for 15 minutes. Route is on the north side of first buttress to extend down toward the trail (on the right), 200 yds up hill on easy scramble. Very visible from main trail! Look for obvious bolt line (well camoed) leading to crack system. (Route is well after Kachina Woman (Bandito Spire) and well before Sundeck and Sinagua Spires). See Bloom/Wolfe guidebook.

Protection

Stoppers, doubles from .3 to 4", 1 - 5", and optional 6" piece. A few long runners to avoid rope drag on first pitch.
Derek Field
Flagstaff, AZ
  5.10+
Derek Field   Flagstaff, AZ
  5.10+
Holy gem!
P1 pretty much defines "full value climbing" with everything from juggy bolt-clipping to baggy-hands enduro crack with an interesting ringlock crux bulge thrown in. Outstanding challenge for the 5.10+ leader. Bring #3s.
P2 has virtually no protection (yellow TCU about 10 feet off the deck is all I found) but honestly, if you made it up the first pitch, don't fret about soloing a chimney feature that gets a 5.0 grade in the Bloom guidebook.
P3 is an absolute treat, with sustained offwidthing on super cool rock. I would recommend one #3, two #4s and two #5s for this pitch. I only brought one #5 and had to bump it uncomfortably far. #6 not necessary. Feb 20, 2017
Bill Lundeen
Lee Vining, CA
 
Bill Lundeen   Lee Vining, CA
 
This is such an amazingly good route! Especially amazing that nobody knows about it or climbs it. The diversity is awesome: sustained moves through bolts and thin hands off the ground to perfect hands to final tricky boulder move to end p.1, very fun easy short chimney on p.2, and p.3 brings the O/W that is so visible from the Boynton Canyon trail.

For a full-value day climb Watch Out, Grandpa and then scramble up from the last pitch to do Mystery Spire (2 routes on it). Rap both routes back to packs. Dec 11, 2016
Sean Neesley  
 
Great climb: Pitch 1 is sustained and awesome, the rest is good ole sedona OW to a great little summit, and a super easy approach right off the trail makes this a great choice! Oct 22, 2016

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