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Routes in 9-Chouinard

BD Left Inside S,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
BD Right Up & In TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Good Vibes T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
One Pine S,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Southeast Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Southeast Roof T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Thinking of Patricia TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
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Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 157 total · 7/month
Shared By: kenr on Nov 8, 2016
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

A taste of Yosemite. Real crack climb with a wide section. Crux might feel easier than the quoted grade for climbers with well-practiced off-width technique, but awkward (and harder?) for most other climbers.

Logical continuation of this route is the route SouthEast Roof, or a much easier way to finish higher is the route "BD Right Out & In". Or perhaps (not yet checked by us) could walk left across ledge under the top V-slot of the Big Dihedral, and join the route "BD Left Crack" to finish to top of Big Dihedral.
There is a rappel station near the top of those routes which can get you back down the anchor at the top of this route. Could also Top-Rope (likely with some slings or static cord) the route BD Right Crack from the two-bolt anchor at top of this route.

Up the crack to the ledge.

Descent by rappel from two-bolt anchor.

top-roping: For ideas about how to set up Top-Rope, see the Area page for this sector 9 Chouinard.
Or this route could be top-roped after climbing the route BD Right Crack.

warning: The rock in this sector has not been climbed much yet, and much of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber.

Location

On the southeast face to the right of the giant inside corner "Big Dihedral" in the left side of the Chouinard sector 9, at the obvious continuous crack trending slightly left-ward. Crack starts 1-2 inches wide, much wider near its top. Finishes up to a broad ledge (with a another shorter face above).

- - > See on this Photo
. . . . and on this Photo

Protection

Leading: standard Trad rack, including at least one wide cam.
Would need a really wide piece to place in the upper off-width section, likely most leaders would go without that.

Two-bolt anchor at top. Bolts not connected. Chain with big wide links handing from each bolt.

No intermediate bolts for leading.

Photos

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