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Routes in 9-Chouinard

Southeast Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Southeast Roof T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 100 total · 6/month
Shared By: kenr on Nov 8, 2016
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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A taste of Yosemite. Real crack climb with a wide section. Crux might feel easier than the quoted grade for climbers with well-practiced off-width technique, but awkward (and harder?) for most other climbers.

Up the crack to the ledge.

Descent by rappel from two-bolt anchor.

. (Continuing above the ledge to the top of another less-tall less-steep southeast face is possible - see the route Southeast Roof. But scrambling down off from there is very difficult and time-consuming, so recommend bringing your own equipment to leave behind for descent by rappel).

warning: The rock in this sector has not been climbed much yet, and much of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber.


On the southeast face to the right of the giant inside corner in the left side of the Chouinard sector 9, at the obvious continuous crack trending slightly left-ward. Crack starts 1-2 inches wide, much wider near its top. Finishes up to a broad ledge (with a another shorter face above).

- - > See on this Photo
. . . . and on this Photo


Leading: standard Trad rack, including at least one wide cam.
Would need a really wide piece to place in the upper off-width section, likely most leaders would go without that.

Two-bolt anchor at top, but no intermediate bolts.



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