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Routes in 9-Chouinard

BD Left Crack S,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
BD Right Crack TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
BD Right Out & In TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
One Pine S,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Southeast Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Southeast Roof T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
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Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 123 total · 6/month
Shared By: kenr on Nov 8, 2016
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description [Suggest Change]

A taste of Yosemite. Real crack climb with a wide section. Crux might feel easier than the quoted grade for climbers with well-practiced off-width technique, but awkward (and harder?) for most other climbers.

Logical continuation of this route is the route SouthEast Roof, or a much easier way to finish higher is the route "BD Right Out & In". Or perhaps (not yet checked by us) could walk left across ledge under the top V-slot of the Big Dihedral, and join the route "BD Left Crack" to finish to top of Big Dihedral.
There is a rappel station near the top of those routes which can get you back down the anchor at the top of this route. Could also Top-Rope (likely with some slings or static cord) the route BD Right Crack from the two-bolt anchor at top of this route.

Up the crack to the ledge.

Descent by rappel from two-bolt anchor.

top-roping: For ideas about how to set up Top-Rope, see the Area page for this sector 9 Chouinard.
Or this route could be top-roped after climbing the route BD Right Crack.

warning: The rock in this sector has not been climbed much yet, and much of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber.

Location [Suggest Change]

On the southeast face to the right of the giant inside corner "Big Dihedral" in the left side of the Chouinard sector 9, at the obvious continuous crack trending slightly left-ward. Crack starts 1-2 inches wide, much wider near its top. Finishes up to a broad ledge (with a another shorter face above).

- - > See on this Photo
. . . . and on this Photo

Protection [Suggest Change]

Leading: standard Trad rack, including at least one wide cam.
Would need a really wide piece to place in the upper off-width section, likely most leaders would go without that.

Two-bolt anchor at top. Bolts not connected. Chain with big wide links handing from each bolt.

No intermediate bolts for leading.



More About Southeast Crack