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Routes in 9-Chouinard

BD Left Crack S,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
BD Right Crack TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
BD Right Out & In TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
One Pine S,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Southeast Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Southeast Roof T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
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Type: Trad, 45 ft
FA: Corey Todd, Michael DeNicola, Ken Roberts
Page Views: 84 total · 4/month
Shared By: kenr on Nov 8, 2016
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description [Suggest Change]

The crux is rather interesting bouldering sequence, but the rest is much easier.

This route could be thought of as a continuation of the southeast crack route (which could be linked in a single pitch), but the character and history of that route is very different.

Scramble up from the ledge into a left-facing corner underneath a 2-3-ft deep roof. Pull over the right edge of the roof (easier than the quoted grade if find the best technique on the first try).

descent: Simplest is to walk left from the top 15-20 ft to the platform to the rappel station on the wide platform on the roof that caps the top of the Big Dihedral. For more details, see the Area page for this sector 9 Chouinard.

top-roping: For ideas about how to set up Top-Rope, see the Area page for this sector 9 Chouinard.

warning: The rock in this sector has not been climbed much yet, and much of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber.

Location [Suggest Change]

On the ledge at the top of the obvious continuous crack up the middle of the southeast face which is to the right of the giant corner in the left side of the Chouinard sector 9. Two-bolt anchor near the outside of this ledge.

Reach the bottom of this route by first climbing the route Southeast Crack or the route BD RIght Crack.

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Protection [Suggest Change]

Leading: standard Trad rack, especially medium small cam. Protection for crux is good but might require strength or precise technique to place.

No fixed hardware for top anchor or for leading as of 2016.

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