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Routes in 9-Chouinard

Southeast Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Southeast Roof T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 45 ft
FA: Corey Todd, Michael DeNicola, Ken Roberts
Page Views: 61 total · 4/month
Shared By: kenr on Nov 8, 2016
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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The crux is rather interesting bouldering sequence, but the rest is much easier and less interesting.

This route could be thought of as a continuation of the southeast crack route (which could be linked in a single pitch), but the character and history of that route is very different.

Scramble up from the ledge into a left-facing corner underneath a 2-3-ft deep roof. Pull over the right edge of the roof (easier than the quoted grade if find the best technique on the first try).

warning: The rock in this sector has not been climbed much yet, and much of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber.


On the ledge at the top of the obvious continuous crack up the middle of the southeast face which is to the right of the giant corner in the left side of the Chouinard sector 9. Two-bolt anchor near the outside of this ledge.

Rather difficult to reach the bottom of this route without first climbing the route of the southeast crack.

- - > See on this Photo
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Leading: standard Trad rack, especially medium small cam. Protection for crux is good but might require strength or precise technique to place.

No fixed hardware for top anchor or for leading as of 2016.

Descent by scrambling is very difficult and time-consuming, so recommend bringing your own equipment to leave behind to make a rappel.



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