Pleasure Feeds Addiction
5.10 YDS 6b French 20 Ewbanks VII- UIAA 19 ZA E2 5b British
Type: | Trad, 200 ft (61 m), 2 pitches |
FA: | Joe Forte |
Page Views: | 1,899 total · 19/month |
Shared By: | joeforte on Oct 17, 2016 |
Admins: | Justin Johnsen, SCPC, SWPACC, EPAC |
The closure is: "The cliffs at Mount Minsi from Point of Gap parking lot to Arrow Island parking lot, from the west shoulder of Route 611 to the top of the ridge, in the Pennsylvania District, will be closed to rock climbing and hiking through approximately early August to prevent human disturbance to nesting peregrine falcons."
Official designated trails are not affected by this closure, meaning hikers can still use Arrow Island Trail and the Appalachian Trail. Official trails and maps are located on the park website at: nps.gov/dewa/planyourvisit/…
Closure signage will be posted near the parking areas.
Description
Start on the left end of the High Wall on the arete, 30 feet left of Osprey and 20 feet right of "Dragon's Lair". On the left end of the low roof where a rock bench can be found.
P1: Climb straight up the arete on clean rock with good gear, passing a large ominous looking block on the right (avoid). Belay at a 2 bolt anchor (5.8PG)
P2: Continue straight up from the belay to the largest part of the overhang. Pull the hang on good gear, 10 feet left of where "Pain" pulls the hang. Continue up on clean rock above until you reach a very thin seam (10 feet left of the upper crack on "Pain Builds Character"). Unlock the sequence and finish at a 2 bolt anchor. (5.10G)
V1. It's possible to diagonal up and left from the belay, around the arete and climb the second pitch of "Dragon's", bringing the grade down to 5.6G
P3: A third pitch is possible but very loose, scary and not for the faint of heart. Most will rap after the second pitch. 5.10R
2 single rope raps or 1 double rope rap will put you back on the ground.
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