Type: Trad, 220 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Hugh Dougher and Henry McMahon
Page Views: 4,820 total · 39/month
Shared By: Ross Purnell on Apr 28, 2009
Admins: Justin Johnsen, Kyle Stapp, SCPC

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Seasonal Falcon Closure Details

Description

Pitch 1: Climb up easy terrain to a small indent with a roof. Pass the roof on the left (5.6) and belay on the flat ledge above (80-90 feet).

Pitch 2: Follow the obvious line straight up, passing three small roofs on the way. Use long slings to avoid rope drag as this pitch is 120 feet. Rope management is critical here. There is a roof with a crack that is known to jam ropes for both leader and follower. At the top of the climb there is a huge roof that you skirt underneath to the left and finish on a dirty, loose ledge with a good tree (Same as Heroine Hypnosis).

Location

Hike the Blue Trail and arrive at the Practice Face. Turn left and follow the cliff for about 100-150 yards. The climbs Osprey and Heroine Hypnosis are just after the point where you make a 4th class scramble up to a high point along the path. Osprey is on the left, HH is on the right.

Two 60M ropes will take you to the bottom.

Protection

Good protection with some of the best rock at DWG. It's solid all the way until the final dirty ledge where there is some small loose stuff. Use long slings to avoid rope drag on the roofs.

Has good bolts and rings at the top.

Photos