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Routes in h. High Wall

Captain Hook V4+ 6B+
Heroine Hypnosis T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Osprey T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Pain Builds Character T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Pleasure Feeds Addiction T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Sleeping Beauty T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Snow White and the Seven Dwarves T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
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Type: Trad, 220 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Hugh Dougher and Henry McMahon
Page Views: 4,458 total · 40/month
Shared By: Ross Purnell on Apr 28, 2009
Admins: Justin Johnsen, Kyle Stapp, SCPC

You & This Route


19 Opinions

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Access Issue: Seasonal Falcon Closure Details

Description

Pitch 1: Climb up easy terrain to a small indent with a roof. Pass the roof on the left (5.6) and belay on the flat ledge above (80-90 feet).

Pitch 2: Follow the obvious line straight up, passing three small roofs on the way. Use long slings to avoid rope drag as this pitch is 120 feet. Rope management is critical here. There is a roof with a crack that is known to jam ropes for both leader and follower. At the top of the climb there is a huge roof that you skirt underneath to the left and finish on a dirty, loose ledge with a good tree (Same as Heroine Hypnosis).

Location

Hike the Blue Trail and arrive at the Practice Face. Turn left and follow the cliff for about 100-150 yards. The climbs Osprey and Heroine Hypnosis are just after the point where you make a 4th class scramble up to a high point along the path. Osprey is on the left, HH is on the right.

Two 60M ropes will take you to the bottom.

Protection

Good protection with some of the best rock at DWG. It's solid all the way until the final dirty ledge where there is some small loose stuff. Use long slings to avoid rope drag on the roofs.

Has good bolts and rings at the top.
Larry S
Easton, PA
 
Larry S   Easton, PA
 
Has bolts and rings at the top. First belay is the 3rd of 3 ledges, directly under an overhang with a piton. 2nd belay is a sloping ledge, but you can belay a little lower at a small slopey stance that way the crux isn't directly off the belay. Seemed technically stout for a 5.6, though not pumpy. Climbing with double ropes would be wise to help with drag, you're carrying two ropes for the rap anyway. Aug 8, 2011
Larry S
Easton, PA
 
Larry S   Easton, PA
 
Beware the rope eating crack on P3. Oct 12, 2011
Larry S
Easton, PA
 
Larry S   Easton, PA
 
Climbed this again today... New recommended strategy - 2 pitches - belay on the decent ledge just above the first crux (30 feet above the normal first pitch belay). Feb 26, 2012
Awsome climb this one is up there with mhy favorite gunks classics... highly reccomeneded (also highly reccomend long slings)! Will be going back soon to climb again! Nov 14, 2012
Ross Purnell
Palmyra
 
Ross Purnell   Palmyra
 
I rewrote the description to two pitches, with one comfortable belay, and a second long pitch. Much better this way. Sep 9, 2013
joeforte
palmerton, pa
  5.6
joeforte   palmerton, pa
  5.6
I like to do this route as one fun long pitch with double ropes. Try it! Sep 17, 2014
Gordon88
Pennsylvania
 
Gordon88   Pennsylvania
 
Awesome climb! Definitely felt hard for a 5.6. Why does this only have 2.5 stars??
I had a fair amount of rope drag at the top of the 2nd pitch (climbing the route in 2 pitches per Larry's recommendation), and I extended every piece, some with double length slings. Sep 29, 2014
Ross Purnell
Palmyra
 
Ross Purnell   Palmyra
 
Gordon, I think it's PA's best moderate multipitch trad route. It deserves many stars! Sep 30, 2014
Larry S
Easton, PA
 
Larry S   Easton, PA
 
Gordon - thats the trade-off i suppose. The original belay for doing this in 3 pitches will give you a little less rope drag, but its on an uncomfortable slab. I think its only 30 or 40 feet above the decent belay ledge, just below an alcove / crux that is passed on the left. Oct 1, 2014
I tried this route on the 23rd of November but had to back down because we underestimated how quickly it got dark. In the process one of my cams got jammed. We where in a rush so I'm sure with a little work you could probably pull it out. If anyone retrieves it please email me at moritzwalther@inbox.lv or pm me on mountainproject. Its a #1 climbx. Jan 19, 2015
Brian BH
Boston
  5.7+ PG13
Brian BH   Boston
  5.7+ PG13
I climbed this in late Oct. seemed a lot harder then 5.6, though I may have been off route. P1 was pretty much a scramble, placed 1 cam I think, but p2 I found myself pulling roof after roof. I traversed left at the top of p1 which I think was incorrect? Slings needed on everything to avoid drag. Regardless, a fun climb, crazy exposure. Not sure I would recommend for a beginning trad lead. Rings at top in fine shape. Nov 8, 2016
Dylan Veltri
Bethlehem PA
Dylan Veltri   Bethlehem PA
Climbed Today, Some loose chalky holds on the first roof of 2nd pitch. Lots of bird poop. Good rock climb. Nov 29, 2017
Larry S
Easton, PA
 
Larry S   Easton, PA
 
Some of the best rock at the gap, climb is stout too, the 5.6 may be a bit of a sandbag. Dec 20, 2017

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