All Locations > Colorado > Alpine Rock > RMNP - Rock > Long's Peak > W Face

Van Diver's West Wall

Name: Van Diver's West Wall
Rating: 3.0

5.2 YDS 3 French 8 Ewbanks II UIAA 8 ZA D 2c British

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Routes in West Face

L › R R › L A › Z

	Detter's Line T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	Dialogue on Zen T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Keyhole Route T 3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a
	Keyhole Spire T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Koren's Rain Dance T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Scaremaster T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Van Diver's West Wall T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
	West Slot T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c

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Type:	Trad, Alpine, 900 ft (273 m)
GPS:	40.2547, -105.615
FA:	Van Diver & Working, 1956
Page Views:	3,933 total · 32/month
Shared By:	Peter Bakwin on Oct 2, 2016
Admins:	Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC Page Updates (admin only)

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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.

Access Issue: Closures Details

Seasonal closures Feb. 15-July 31. Per the Denver Post:, the Cathedral Wall and all areas above the Loch Vale-Sky Pond Trail are closed to off-trail travel! Per this RMNP website, "Initial closures now occur in Feb. 15 and April, when raptors return to the region and scout for nesting sites. Areas containing general habitat preferred by raptors are closed during this time. Once raptors have selected nesting spots, the initial closures are lifted or adjusted. The specific areas which raptors choose for nesting sites are closed."

For additional information about raptor closures, please visit the Rocky Mountain National Parks area closures website.

General NPS climbing regulations for RMNP posted here.

Description

This is a very nice route right up the center of Long's Peak's West Face. It is a 5th Class alternative to the popular Keyhole Route and skips the yucky Trough section, as well as the Narrows and Homestretch, by taking a very direct line from the base of the Trough to the summit plateau. It keeps to a very moderate line (5.2) while being surrounded by harder terrain. To find the route, follow the Keyhole Route until you enter the Trough. Looking up the West Face (to the left of the Trough), you will see an obvious, triangular buttress. Scramble up the left side of this buttress - Class 3 at first and then more like Class 4. Near the top of the left side of the buttress, start trending slightly left to intersect an obvious crack system that leads to a small but obvious broken tower on the ridge above. Continue up this crack system (5th Class, but easy and secure) all the way to the ridge. You need to be careful of loose rocks on this route - you don't want to bombard the hordes in the Trough. It's worth noting that this part of the face has a slight tilt to the south and is in the Sun after about 11:00 AM.