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Routes in The Wart

Banana Hammock T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Compound W T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Compound W variation T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Freight Night T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Mean Mug T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Meyah T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Smiley Kylee T,TR 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Type: Trad
FA: Nathan Redon, Josh Lowy
Page Views: 678 total, 45/month
Shared By: Nate Redon on Sep 24, 2016
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Nate Ball, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

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2017 Seasonal Raptor Closure: UTW from waterfall to Golden Arch Details

Description

Freight Night starts on Mean Mug (or Banana Hammock for full value) and cuts right where you can traverse on a slabby ramp. Follow the ramp using a broken crack system up to a small roof (crux) and continue up easier terrain to a bolted anchor. You can easily reach the top of the Wart from here.

A direct start up the arete has been done on TR. Pretty fun.

Location

Starts as for Mean Mug (large chimney at the base of the gulley) or as for Banana Hammock for full value. See picture.

Protection

SR from small nuts to .75". If you're pushing yourself at the grade, a good selection of small nuts / cams will sew it up. Bring bigger stuff if starting on Banana Hammock.

Photos

Nate Redon
Seattle, WA
 
Nate Redon   Seattle, WA
 
Thanks for the input Serge, I graded it based on other routes in the area but maybe I underestimated the crux. In the interest of not sandbagging anyone (don't read ahead if you care about onsights or like a challenge) the crux will definitely feel hard if you don't find a certain hold, keep your eyes peeled out right. Nov 14, 2016
Pushing 10a (height-depdendent) at the crux (near the end). Protection there (nuts / small cams) is probably ok, but one would fall some distance. Nov 9, 2016
Josh Lowy
Sacramento, CA
  5.9-
Josh Lowy   Sacramento, CA
  5.9-
Not sustained, but keeps you on your toes. Most of the route is probably 5.7ish slab but the crux [with beta ;)] is roughly 5.9. Keep your eyes peeled because there are plenty of easily overlooked placements. Summiting the Wart from the anchor is easy but I would remain tied in/on belay to do so. Hip/tree/further anchor belay your partner up after. Fun route; atypical of other ~5.9 climbs at Index that I've done (more face-climbing focused). Sep 24, 2016