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Routes in The Wart

Banana Hammock T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Compound W T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Compound W variation T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Freight Night T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Mean Mug T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Meyah T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Smiley Kylee T,TR 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
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Type: Trad
FA: Nathan Redon, Josh Lowy
Page Views: 749 total · 37/month
Shared By: Nate Redon on Sep 24, 2016
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

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Access Issue: 2018 Seasonal Raptor Closure: Upper pitches of the Diamond Details

Description [Edit]

Freight Night starts on Mean Mug (or Banana Hammock for full value) and cuts right where you can traverse on a slabby ramp. Follow the ramp using a broken crack system up to a small roof (crux) and continue up easier terrain to a bolted anchor. You can easily reach the top of the Wart from here.

A direct start up the arete has been done on TR. Pretty fun.

Location [Edit]

Starts as for Mean Mug (large chimney at the base of the gulley) or as for Banana Hammock for full value. See picture.

Protection [Edit]

SR from small nuts to .75". If you're pushing yourself at the grade, a good selection of small nuts / cams will sew it up. Bring bigger stuff if starting on Banana Hammock.

Photos

Josh Lowy
Sacramento, CA
  5.9-
Josh Lowy   Sacramento, CA
  5.9-
Not sustained, but keeps you on your toes. Most of the route is probably 5.7ish slab but the crux [with beta ;)] is roughly 5.9. Keep your eyes peeled because there are plenty of easily overlooked placements. Summiting the Wart from the anchor is easy but I would remain tied in/on belay to do so. Hip/tree/further anchor belay your partner up after. Fun route; atypical of other ~5.9 climbs at Index that I've done (more face-climbing focused). Sep 24, 2016
Pushing 10a (height-depdendent) at the crux (near the end). Protection there (nuts / small cams) is probably ok, but one would fall some distance. Nov 9, 2016
Nate Redon
Seattle, WA
 
Nate Redon   Seattle, WA
 
Thanks for the input Serge, I graded it based on other routes in the area but maybe I underestimated the crux. In the interest of not sandbagging anyone (don't read ahead if you care about onsights or like a challenge) the crux will definitely feel hard if you don't find a certain hold, keep your eyes peeled out right. Nov 14, 2016

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