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Routes in The Wart

Banana Hammock T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Compound W T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Compound W variation T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Freight Night T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Mean Mug T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Meyah T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Smiley Kylee T,TR 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: Cameron Elias, Eric Lund
Page Views: 1,082 total, 21/month
Shared By: djrepnik on Sep 12, 2013
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Nate Ball, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


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2017 Seasonal Raptor Closure: UTW from waterfall to Golden Arch Details

Description

An awesome left facing corner with great laybacking and jamming.

Location

SW corner of the Wart.

Protection

Single rack to 3".

Photos

Sounds like maybe 30' length would be more accurate for the modern intended version of Compound W ? Jul 26, 2017
There is some confusion here between Compound W and the Compound W Variation. The "Variation" is actually a completely separate climb. The original Compound W climbed to a tree anchor that was above the leftward anchor. The anchor on the left is where the good climbing ends and is the closest to the original line.

The Variation was led from the ground up from below the rightward small roof section and the anchor placed decades after the original Compound W was established. Essentially, they are 2 distinct climbs. If you have fun combining them, awesome, but one would be safer climbing them as 2 separate lines. Nov 15, 2016
Nate Redon
Seattle, WA
  5.9+
Nate Redon   Seattle, WA
  5.9+
IIRC you do need micro or ball nuts to protect the move Serge is talking about. I think I remember my 0.1 being too big the 1st time I did it, but maybe a 000 would work? The move isn't too difficult but it is spicy. Nov 14, 2016
Jon Nelson
Bellingham, WA
Jon Nelson   Bellingham, WA  
Thanks Serge for the heads-up, but sorry to hear about the injury. Nov 9, 2016
First half is challenging but clean and well protected. 2nd half is dirty and hard to protect. Where good protection ends, there is a rap anchor left of the route, which I should have used. My attempt to continue (right) resulted in an injury ledge fall. It's my fault - I knew my placement protecting the move off the ledge was crap. Moss/dirt may have been a factor - it's possible there is good protection buried somewhere. Ballnutz might have helped.

Update (2017): the 1/4-inch crack in the dihedral going right (below a bolt) has been excavated, revealing good purple BD nut placements (e.g. imgur.com/a/9NnyF ). Nov 8, 2016
Brian Polagye
  5.9
Brian Polagye  
  5.9
Fun laybacks off the deck (more sustained than Toxic Shock), then interesting sequence above to reach chains. Cleaned of (most) blackberries, moss, and mud on 7/2/16. Deserves more traffic than it sees. Jul 3, 2016
Michael Carter
  5.10a
Michael Carter  
  5.10a
Fun climb, good combo of laybacking/jamming for the first half, then some interesting moves on the top half. Jul 1, 2015