Type: Sport, 370 ft (112 m), 5 pitches
FA: Tod Anderson & Patrick Stephens
Page Views: 2,135 total · 42/month
Shared By: Furthermore on Sep 23, 2016
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

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Access Issue: Raptor Closures Details

Description

This climb starts just left of a decent hand crack which is located about 100 feet left of the Revelation Chimney. It can be identified by the four closely spaced bolts.

Pitch 1 - 5.10b. Start up the face just left of the hand crack, and climb up a steep wall to easier terrain (crux of the entire route). Just before the anchor is another thought provoking, slabby crux, 16 bolts, 115 feet.

Pitch 2 - 5.7. From the belay ledge, climb straight up 20 feet to the first bolt. After the second bolt, traverse right on slab to another belay station, 5 bolts, 75 feet.

Pitch 3 - 5.10a. This is the money pitch. From the belay, step right where there are two bolted lines up a prow. Take the right bolted line (left is a variation 11, mixed with gear, unconfirmed). Enjoy fun face climbing up chickenheads to another sizable ledge. Near the top, don't veer too far right to a randomly placed bolt, 11 bolts, 85 feet.

Pitch 4 – 5.10a. Climb easy terrain, left, to a somewhat high first bolt. Only a few short moves of balancy climbing, up a seam, guide you to easy climbing and the next belay, 4-5 bolts, 35 feet.

Pitch 5 – 5.8. Start with a mantel to reach the first bolt. Funky, dirty, bushy climbing leads to the top. Rappel the route or walk off. If you're rappelling, consider rappelling from the top of the fourth pitch, 7 bolts, 50 feet.

Notes: 

-Pitches 4 & 5 can easily be combined, 12 bolts.

-There is another set of anchors 15-20 feet below the pitch 1 anchors (different bolted line) which would facilitate a rappel with a 60m rope for those only seeking to do the first pitch.

Location

Per Julian Smith: this route is easy to find. It is located just to the left of the Revelation Chimney. In fact, begin approaching as for the Revelation Chimney, and just before you have to start scrambling, deke left to a nice ledge, where the bolted layback crack should be obvious.

Note, this is a combination of 2 submissions for the same route with the information merged onto the 1st submission's page.

Protection

Draws. The first pitch requires 16.

Photos