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Routes in Sin City

Devil's Trident (Center to Right Fork), The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Devil's Trident, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Jackson Creek Jig T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Revelation Route S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Sunny Side Up S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Sport, 370 ft, 5 pitches
FA: Tod Anderson & Patrick Stephens
Page Views: 629 total, 45/month
Shared By: Furthermore on Sep 23, 2016
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Raptor Closures Details

Description

This climb starts just left of a decent hand crack which is located about 100 feet left of the Revelation Chimney. It can be identified by the four closely spaced bolts.

Pitch 1 - 5.10b. Start up the face just left of the hand crack and climb up a steep wall to easier terrain (crux of the entire route). Just before the anchor is another thought provoking, slabby crux, 16 bolts, 115 feet.

Pitch 2 - 5.7. From the belay ledge climb straight up 20 feet to the first bolt. After the second bolt, traverse right on slab to another belay station, 5 bolts, 75 feet.

Pitch 3 - 5.10a. The money pitch. From the belay, step right where there are two bolted lines up a prow. Take the right bolted line (left is a variation 11, mixed with gear, unconfirmed). Enjoy fun face climbing up chickenheads to another sizable ledge. Near the top, don't veer too far right to a randomly placed bolt, 11 bolts, 85 feet.

Pitch 4 – 5.10a. Climb easy terrain, left, to a somewhat high first bolt. Only a few short moves of balancy climbing, up a seam, guide you to easy climbing and the next belay, 4 bolts, 35 feet.

Pitch 5 – 5.8. Start with a mantle to reach the first bolt. Funky, dirty, bushy climbing leads to the top. Rappel the route or walk off. If you're rappelling, consider rappelling from the top of the fourth pitch, 7 bolts, 50 feet.

Notes:
-Pitches 4 & 5 can easily be combined, 12 bolts.

-There is another set of anchors 15-20 feet below the pitch 1 anchors (different bolted line) which would facilitate a rappel with a 60m rope for those only seeking to do the first pitch.

Protection

Draws. The first pitch requires 16.

Photos

Victor K
Denver, CO
Victor K   Denver, CO
This is a great climb overall, but if your crack skills are weak (like mine), pitch 1 is humbling. My climbing partner thought the first pitch was an honest 10c crack. Oct 24, 2016