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The Devil's Trident (Center to Right Fork)
5.10+ YDS 6b+ French 21 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 20 ZA E3 5b British
Avg: 3 from 4
votes
Routes in Sin City
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Devil's Trident (Center to Right Fork), The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Devil's Trident, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Jackson Creek Jig T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Revelation Route S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Sunny Side Up S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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| Type: | Trad, 100 ft |
| FA: | Wolfe, Maxson |
| Page Views: | 532 total · 14/month |
| Shared By: | Furthermore on Sep 13, 2016 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac |
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Access Issue: Raptor Closures
Details
March 1st-July 31st: Devil's Head Rock, Sin City, & Recovery Wall are closed for raptor protection. The vast majority of the other crags are unaffected by the closure. Please visit:
fs.usda.gov/alerts/psicc/al… for additional information and maps.
fs.usda.gov/alerts/psicc/al… for additional information and maps.
Description
This is a variation to The Devil's Trident as they share the same start and finish.
From the start of Revelation Route (the bolted chimney in the center of Sin City), walk ~150 feet, north (right) down a hill to the dual split crack. Climb 20 feet of class 3 to a small bench at the start of the crack; belay from here.
Begin up the thin crack (some chossy rock on the left which is only used for balanced feet) to a short section of wide hands which then reduces back to perfect hands. Instead of climbing the left prominent crack to the top, climb the center splitter hand crack.
Don't climb too high as the top of the flake creating the second crack is questionable. Place a high cam (again not too high), traverse hard right to a ledge, and the right crack. Continue up the thin right crack (somewhat tricky gear and crux), to a slab arete on the right.
The top of the arete ends at the top of the flake that creates the Devil Trident's left crack. Finish with 15 feet of easy slab (1 bolt) to a two bolt anchor.
Make sure to tie knots at the end of your rope - it's right at 100 feet long, and you could certainly drop your partner off the ledge.
From the start of Revelation Route (the bolted chimney in the center of Sin City), walk ~150 feet, north (right) down a hill to the dual split crack. Climb 20 feet of class 3 to a small bench at the start of the crack; belay from here.
Begin up the thin crack (some chossy rock on the left which is only used for balanced feet) to a short section of wide hands which then reduces back to perfect hands. Instead of climbing the left prominent crack to the top, climb the center splitter hand crack.
Don't climb too high as the top of the flake creating the second crack is questionable. Place a high cam (again not too high), traverse hard right to a ledge, and the right crack. Continue up the thin right crack (somewhat tricky gear and crux), to a slab arete on the right.
The top of the arete ends at the top of the flake that creates the Devil Trident's left crack. Finish with 15 feet of easy slab (1 bolt) to a two bolt anchor.
Make sure to tie knots at the end of your rope - it's right at 100 feet long, and you could certainly drop your partner off the ledge.
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